Offline for a few days...dead power supply

[gman5250]

Power supply went south this AM. It'll take a few days for a new one to arrive, so I'll be limited for comms until I'm back up and running. Library computer only, every other day...if and when it does not snow. lol

:running:

[Priller]

Hoping that it will arrive soon mate!

Priller

[gman5250]

Hoping that it will arrive soon mate!

Priller

UPS ground departed out of Illinois, directly into major weather. More heavy weather over the West for the next four days. No estimated delivery date available. Limited comms here.

Waiting...errrr...patiently.

[Switchblade408]

Did you want me to send those K-model cockpit photos via email?

[Priller]

Just a HU: I had word from Gordon this morning, and although the PSU has arrived, his system will not boot anymore.

Here's to hoping that this can be resolved and that the system didn't suffer any damage when the old PSU died.

Cheers,

Priller

[gman5250]

Did you want me to send those K-model cockpit photos via email?

Right now I'm not able to access any of my storage, but I can leave them in the email and retrieve them later. :encouragement:

[gman5250]

Update:

I installed the new PSU and the system failed to boot. Today, exploring options to isolate the problem with the help of a friend. Possibly the Mobo is gone.

At this point I am not in any position, and won't be in the foreseeable future, to purchase Mobo, PSU or any components for a $6,000 computer.
So, I will apparently be inactive and not able to work indefinitely. My wife and I must prioritize our expenses and the machine is at the bottom of the pile.

I am sorry to leave plates spinning in the air, but some things are simply out of my control.

:pop4:

[Sieggie]

If you have another windows system available, try connecting the failing HD via usb or whatever to the functioning system and run chkdsk from there. I have found this approach to fix booting issues for me in the past. If you can create a bootable Linux CD or Thumbdrive on another machine, that will give you a way to boot around the windows HD and troubleshoot stuff. Just a thought.

Dave

[gman5250]

If you have another windows system available, try connecting the failing HD via usb or whatever to the functioning system and run chkdsk from there. I have found this approach to fix booting issues for me in the past. If you can create a bootable Linux CD or Thumbdrive on another machine, that will give you a way to boot around the windows HD and troubleshoot stuff. Just a thought.

Dave

Thanks Dave, good suggestion. I have a back up box, but the CPU cracked and fluid ran onto the Mobo. It might be OK, but I would need to buy a new CPU. My original intent was to transfer the CPU from my main box to the number two box, which is compatible, then upgrade the CPU in the main box.

Right now, assets to do anything are limited, so I'm looking at what can be done now.

:encouragement:

[Switchblade408]

I sent the email. Hope you can get your pc problem solved.

[Sieggie]

Ouch, I have never seen a CPU crack. Did the PS failure cause that?

Dave

[gman5250]

Ouch, I have never seen a CPU crack. Did the PS failure cause that?

Dave

The cracked CPU is on my back up box. It is/was a water cooled unit and apparently got too cold. The main computer/workstation is the one that lost the PSu. I keep my home office temperature high enough to protect the box, even when it gets 14 below outside.

[Sieggie]

I worry about it getting 40F here in FL :)

[wombat666]

Just a little OT but we get ambient temperatures in Melbourne Australia around 40C at this time of the year!
:dizzy:

[gman5250]

We get hammered with cold in February. Inversions and the lake across the meadow is the lowest/coldest part of the caldera. I just shoveled three feet of snow from my roof...my office temperature went down significantly. Snow is a good insulator, but tons of it over my head make me nervous. Melbourne sounds nice right about now.

BTW...looking now at the CPU or MoBo. I get a red led on the MoBo labeled CPU LED when the system shuts down on boot. I power the PSU, the fans try to turn, the red led comes on and it shuts down. Start to finish about two seconds.


I'd much prefer to replace a CPU than put in a new MoBo. We'll see, but I have one more day of shoveling to finish digging out...then four more feet coming Saturday and Sunday. :running:

[FlyingsCool]

I guess you got all our snow this winter. We've seen nary a drop up here in MA this year, a couple inches here or there, then gone a few days later as temps reach the 50'sF O_o

And I live a bit to the west on the NH border...

Good luck with your computer...when it rains it snows....

[Sieggie]

If you havent pulled the motherboard battery, try that. I have seen bios reset clear the symptoms you describe many times.

Dave


We get hammered with cold in February. Inversions and the lake across the meadow is the lowest/coldest part of the caldera. I just shoveled three feet of snow from my roof...my office temperature went down significantly. Snow is a good insulator, but tons of it over my head make me nervous. Melbourne sounds nice right about now.

BTW...looking now at the CPU or MoBo. I get a red led on the MoBo labeled CPU LED when the system shuts down on boot. I power the PSU, the fans try to turn, the red led comes on and it shuts down. Start to finish about two seconds.


I'd much prefer to replace a CPU than put in a new MoBo. We'll see, but I have one more day of shoveling to finish digging out...then four more feet coming Saturday and Sunday. :running:

[Priller]

If you havent pulled the motherboard battery, try that. I have seen bios reset clear the symptoms you describe many times.

Dave

Good pointer! Should have thought of that myself! :encouragement:

Priller

[Priller]

G,

Check your mail mate!

Priller

[gman5250]

If you havent pulled the motherboard battery, try that. I have seen bios reset clear the symptoms you describe many times.

Dave

Great suggestion. I'll do that today and pop back in with the result.
Much appreciated Dave. :very_drunk:

[gman5250]

G,

Check your mail mate!

Priller

Will do. Thanks mate.

[gman5250]

If you havent pulled the motherboard battery, try that. I have seen bios reset clear the symptoms you describe many times.

Dave


Update:

I removed the battery, let the machine set for about a minute, replaced the batter, then pressed the start button. The machine tries to spin up the cooling fans, the red CPU LED lights up and the system shuts itself off after about one second. It will repeat by itself a number of times without me touching the start switch. At that point I turn off the PSU and unplug the main power cord to the PSU.

Good try though!

[Sieggie]

Sorry gman, dosn't look good.

Dave

[BendyFlyer]

Laptop or tower unit Gman? This is a common problem with Dell stuff usually shows up after about a year or two. Identical symptoms to what you describe. There is a fix might be worth check out the net if and when you can re Dell PC failing to start. it is a hardware-software issue both. Sorry to say this but in end I surrendered and through the Dell in the bin. Not much comfort I know but if your surrounded by white stuff you might get some clues via the Dell fails to start or starts and shuts down problem.

[gman5250]

Laptop or tower unit Gman? This is a common problem with Dell stuff usually shows up after about a year or two. Identical symptoms to what you describe. There is a fix might be worth check out the net if and when you can re Dell PC failing to start. it is a hardware-software issue both. Sorry to say this but in end I surrendered and through the Dell in the bin. Not much comfort I know but if your surrounded by white stuff you might get some clues via the Dell fails to start or starts and shuts down problem.

The unit is a StealthMachine tower...I've shown specs in my signature. The unit is four years old, and I do work it hard with the sim, Photoshop and 3D Studio, along with a ton of power hungry peripherals. I'm not surprised that it might be a used up CPU, in fact I have been aware that I am over the life expectancy for a while now.

If I buy a new CPU, it will be a six core with a bit more HP than my current which has served me very well. If it turns out that the CPU is not bad, it is not a loss because I can put the existing unit in my number two box, which is compatible.

I am working with limited resources, so I am trying to limit my diagnosis errors if I can. I really appreciate all of the help and suggestions from everyone. If it was a Harley, I could listen to it and tell you what is wrong but sadly I don't have that level of expertise in this particular area.

[TuFun]

Mine crapped out in Dec 2017 and was in limbo for a year. Wasn't sure I was going to build one and just hang out with nature instead. Well got me one of those 9000's series processors. Built a new computer with 9600k and very happy with it. Does what it suppose to do. With SSD's and Win10 Pro, I was amazed how fast it is.

Take care of your needs "G", that's the most important thing right now. You'll bounce back I'm sure! All the best "G"!

[gman5250]

This is starting to remind me of a similar situation I had with my bike. We had built the motor and run it on the dyno...made 126 HP. Riding it back up the hill, the brand new motor went up in smoke. The green motor had blown out a chunk of roller tappet on the dyno...so...another couple of grand to fix the brand new motor.

A couple of thousand miles later the motor started running like the timing had fallen out, chugging, snorting and running between one and two barrels. It would come and go intermittently. It's an EFI motor with two computers and a pile of sensors. The Harley guys couldn't find anything on their computers, and the bike kept throwing codes...this sensor, that sensor, yada yada yada. I traced every foot of wiring on the bike and replaced every sensor and the injectors. Nothing fixed the problem and I spent a lot of money chasing ghosts.

The neighbor down the way was a career Toyota mechanic. I told him about the bike and he asked if it had a crank position sensor. It did. He told me to pull that sensor and have a look inside. The sensor is basically a tiny magnetic tube, but when I put a probe down inside I brought out a sliver of metal about the size of an eyelash. That sliver of metal had brought a $7000 stroker motor to it's knees.

Turns out that when the motor had blown the tappet, the piece about the size of a pinkie fingernail went through the oil pump and got ground to powder but, a tiny sliver made its way all the way through the oiling system and into the CPS, where it was grounding the crank timing...sometimes.

I found the tappet when I switched to the chain drive cams, S&S 106 barrel kit and limited travel lifters. I ended up splitting the case on this build and that's when I found the ground metal in the sump.

Point of the story

I don't have a way to diagnose any of the broken bits in the computer and there is no tech any where near me...so...I'm chasing a ghost in the machine...again. Looks like i'm going to have to take a hard look at a Gen8 or Gen9 CPU/MoBo, probably the Intel Core i7-9700K & ASUS ROG Strix Z390-E Gaming LGA 1151. That way I'll resolve the possibility of borked CPU, MoBo, or both.

That's a ton, but this box is four years old and rode hard, and I need to get back to work.

Opinions???

[BendyFlyer]

GMAN, sorry I missed you had put your specs up. I went through my technical notes same issues apply for tower computers.

The description of what happens fits what is called a POST failure. That means it is failing the power on self start test sequence or POST. The causes can be one of the following; dodgy power supply, corrupted BIOS or shot system board. The fan starting and LEDs on indicates that it is getting power but failing the POST test (which all PC's do at the beginning when turned on), basically as the system powers up it checks connections and supply to all peripherals and hardware connected. The recommendation was to disconnect everything except the monitor, if it starts then there is a peripheral issue and therefore reconnecting the peripherals one by one and doing the start will identify which one is causing an issue, that is which ever bit it was that got you a failure. Could be the monitor as well. Essentially peripherals such as monitor etc can do this.

It is more than likely something deeper at the BIOS or system board level. Given your description of the leak, have you tried pulling out all the boards, memory etc that you can get to and using a spray cleaner drier to get rid of any residual moisture that may be lurking somewhere? This stuff you can get at electronic stores, given that it is so cold where you are, you may have just a few drops of residual water or liquid inside the board or connectors which are basically almost frozen and when they get heat liquify or cause a short out. I would try the clean and dry as a cheap first step. If still no go then I think the system board is possibly shot, never had a corrupted bios in my life time of playing with PCs.

After the dry try holding down the power on button for several seconds maybe 10 without the power from mains ON, this will discharge any capacitors that also may be carrying residual power and preventing a start. The reconnect the power and try again holding down for 2-5 secs and observe if it starts up properly . If however it indicates power, fans turn and some LEDS come on but then fails to go through normal start with monitor displaying something etc, then it is not the power supply or BIOS but the system board which is damaged. That means replacing the board.

Only a humble view on the issues, worth a try no damage can result.

[Priller]

The Intel Core i7-9700K & ASUS ROG Strix Z390-E Gaming LGA 1151 are excellent choices mate!!

But still I hope that Bendyflyer's suggestion works and that you can save the $$$$.

Cheers,

Priller

[gman5250]

GMAN, sorry I missed you had put your specs up..

No worries mate.

After I replaced the PSU my attempts to start the box were done with no peripherals i.e. screen plugged in. I unplugged the SSD and 5TB storage drives as well. Only the main C drive was powered up.

I read your suggestions and went through that sequence, still no joy. I'm pretty certain that the MoBo or CPU are at the heart of the problem. As you can see from my specs, both are a bit out dated....well lets just say obsolete in today's tech environment. It makes very little sense to repair the system with equivalent components, so I'm making the decision to update the box to generation 9 CPU, MoBo and memory. That will be more or less a complete rebuild and should bring the box up to date.

It may take a bit of time, but I will make that my focus. I really appreciate your interest and help. Thanks mate. :very_drunk:

[gman5250]

Designed Obsolescence :banghead:

Whether it is the MoBo or the CPU that are broken, there is a conundrum. The only replacement for the existing CPU is $850.00 US, but it does have free shipping. The exact replacement MoBo is $379.99 for a "like new used", of course with free shipping as well. To replace one or both would result in a substantial investment in outdated tech. If my car, or bike is four years old I can still get tires and wiper blades, even a starter at a reasonable price. Not so for computers.

For slightly more than the cost of purchasing the now outdated CPU, I can upgrade the MoBO, CPU and memory to Gen 8/9. I've tallied up the shopping list, it's a bit over $1000.00 US. Of course, that will be the obvious course of action.

I'm not a fan of Modern Monetary Theory, but the folks over in Silicon Valley most certainly are. After all, this is Kalifornia where it costs me more to register my 2001 Silverado in 2019, than it did when the truck was new.

It'll take me a bit of time to pull it all together, but I'll build what is essentially a new box and jump back into my work. The single consolation, that combination with the GTX1080TI card will absolutely shine in P3Dv5.

[Priller]

That is so true mate. Then again, we hate to see these things happen to our friends.

I just hope that you'll be able to pull off the rebuild soon.

you know where and how to find me! ;)

Priller

[BendyFlyer]

Bugger, yep either one has had it. Understand your predicament. My Box has limited slots that will not take upgrades to new stuff because of the MOB was not designed for them. On top of that I know my HD is starting to get wonky, fails to write to disk or is slow etc, as you say you could probably upgrade the lot but is it worth it. My unit was state of the art 7 years ago but now is so far behind it is not funny and it is getting tired despite some memory upgrades etc. I guess I will have to bite the bullet at some stage but having gone off grid and headed for the hills some time ago, one is not flash for cash and given the extreme weather that seems common these days those resources are become more and more stretched. Hear what you say understand the problem my friend. Plenty of cash it would not be an issue but when its tight every buck counts and if you spend it you got do it the best you can with the best result. Good luck hope it works out.

[gman5250]

Interesting:

I spent all day working on my expired workstation. I pulled off all of the bling plastic and exposed the working parts. I removed the radiator from the chassis and pulled the fans from the radiator. I deep cleaned the fans and radiator, then re-assembled them into the box. I checked all of the external power switches and fan adjustment sliders, cleaning everything meticulously.

While I had the radiator out I closely checked the eight pin CPU power connector on the MoBo. On this board there are issues with heat damage reported, but I found everything to be fine on the old power supply. I triple checked all of the main power connections i.e. MoBO, CPU, GPU and externals. Then I went around and triple checked every connection on the MoBp to the various fans, headers, SATA etc. I hyper cleaned the entire box including all of the cables and shielded cables etc., then I plugged in the main power supply.

Here's the funny part... I was re-installing the external bling plastic to the front and top of the unit. As I was snapping down the top piece, I depressed the start button by accident.

The machine powered up!

I didn't have the screen connected, but by sound I could hear the machine searching for it's boot sequence. At this point I shut the machine down because I had removed the CPU heat sink during the inspection and need to clean the CPU & heat sink and re-apply thermal paste. I did, however, hook up the screen and attempt a short boot sequence to enter the BIOS. The monitor was not receiving any data via the HDMI 3 cable, and showed no connection. I checked the monitor to make sure it was pointed to HDMI 3, it was.

I thought it may be the GPU, so I switched out the GTX 1080 TI to my GTX 780 TI. Same result with both cards, so I put the 1080 back into the tower.

With my limited expertise I am leaning to the conclusion that it is the MoBo that has failed. All of the components including the video cards are spooling up, fans turning and lights blinking...just no output to the monitor.

At this point I'm still looking at the system update/rebuild.

[Penzoil3]

Have you tried a different cable for the monitor ?

[gman5250]

Have you tried a different cable for the monitor ?

I've got a couple of HDMI 3 cables and used both. I didn't try alternate cable types, but I think the cables are fine. :wavey:

[PHo17]

I've got a couple of HDMI 3 cables and used both. I didn't try alternate cable types, but I think the cables are fine. :wavey:

How about the monitor itself? Have you tried another?

[Priller]

Interesting:

I spent all day working on my expired workstation. I pulled off all of the bling plastic and exposed the working parts. I removed the radiator from the chassis and pulled the fans from the radiator. I deep cleaned the fans and radiator, then re-assembled them into the box. I checked all of the external power switches and fan adjustment sliders, cleaning everything meticulously.

While I had the radiator out I closely checked the eight pin CPU power connector on the MoBo. On this board there are issues with heat damage reported, but I found everything to be fine on the old power supply. I triple checked all of the main power connections i.e. MoBO, CPU, GPU and externals. Then I went around and triple checked every connection on the MoBp to the various fans, headers, SATA etc. I hyper cleaned the entire box including all of the cables and shielded cables etc., then I plugged in the main power supply.

Here's the funny part... I was re-installing the external bling plastic to the front and top of the unit. As I was snapping down the top piece, I depressed the start button by accident.

The machine powered up!

I didn't have the screen connected, but by sound I could hear the machine searching for it's boot sequence. At this point I shut the machine down because I had removed the CPU heat sink during the inspection and need to clean the CPU & heat sink and re-apply thermal paste. I did, however, hook up the screen and attempt a short boot sequence to enter the BIOS. The monitor was not receiving any data via the HDMI 3 cable, and showed no connection. I checked the monitor to make sure it was pointed to HDMI 3, it was.

I thought it may be the GPU, so I switched out the GTX 1080 TI to my GTX 780 TI. Same result with both cards, so I put the 1080 back into the tower.

With my limited expertise I am leaning to the conclusion that it is the MoBo that has failed. All of the components including the video cards are spooling up, fans turning and lights blinking...just no output to the monitor.

At this point I'm still looking at the system update/rebuild.

IMHO it is indeed the MoBo that has failed.

Pity that you can't try out the GTX1080TI on another rig to be absolutely sure. But the fact that the 780TI didn't function either is a good sign!

Keep us posted mate!

Priller

[gman5250]

How about the monitor itself? Have you tried another?

Monitor is good. I can plug the old MacBook in through the mini/HDMI cable. :encouragement:

[Priller]

I sent you a mail G!!

Priller

[Priller]

And another one! ;)

Priller

[gman5250]

Update:

I have ordered all of the parts for the rebuild. The MoBo and M.2 SSD have been delivered. The CPU will arrive in two days, the rest of the parts will be here in a bit over a week.

I'm detailing the box, getting everything squeaky clean for the new build. Hopefully, I'll be back up and running with no issues. :encouragement:

New Parts for the new build.


ASUS ROG Strix Z390-E Gaming LGA 1151 (300 Series) Intel Z390 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119151

Intel Core i9-9900K Coffee Lake 8-Core, 16-Thread, 3.6 GHz (5.0 GHz Turbo) LGA 1151 (300 Series)
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117957

CORSAIR Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820236454

SAMSUNG 860 EVO Series M.2 2280 1TB SATA III V-NAND 3-bit MLC Internal Solid State Drive
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147678

Cooler Master MasterAir Maker 8 High-end CPU air cooler
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103208

CORSAIR HX Series HX1200 CP-9020140-NA 1200W ATX12V v2.4
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139205

[gray eagle]

Update:

I have ordered all of the parts for the rebuild. The MoBo and M.2 SSD have been delivered. The CPU will arrive in two days, the rest of the parts will be here in a bit over a week.

I'm detailing the box, getting everything squeaky clean for the new build. Hopefully, I'll be back up and running very soon. :encouragement:



New Parts for the new build.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119151

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117957

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820236454

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147678

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103208

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139205



So what kind of keyboard you using? Corsair mech RGB cherry MX Browns?

[gman5250]

So what kind of keyboard you using? Corsair mech RGB cherry MX Browns?

Right now a POS Microsoft Wireless 5000. When I recover from the build, I'll move to a mechanical gaming board.
I'm also using a Wacom Intuos Pro pad for much of my touch control/gesture interface.

[Priller]

Update:

I have ordered all of the parts for the rebuild. The MoBo and M.2 SSD have been delivered. The CPU will arrive in two days, the rest of the parts will be here in a bit over a week.

I'm detailing the box, getting everything squeaky clean for the new build. Hopefully, I'll be back up and running with no issues. :encouragement:

New Parts for the new build.


ASUS ROG Strix Z390-E Gaming LGA 1151 (300 Series) Intel Z390 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119151

Intel Core i9-9900K Coffee Lake 8-Core, 16-Thread, 3.6 GHz (5.0 GHz Turbo) LGA 1151 (300 Series)
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117957

CORSAIR Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820236454

SAMSUNG 860 EVO Series M.2 2280 1TB SATA III V-NAND 3-bit MLC Internal Solid State Drive
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147678

Cooler Master MasterAir Maker 8 High-end CPU air cooler
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103208

CORSAIR HX Series HX1200 CP-9020140-NA 1200W ATX12V v2.4
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139205

That and your GTX1080TI tells me that you won't just be up and running, but scorching!! :)

Priller

[Priller]

Hey Gordon,

Any news on the arrival of the parts? Or are you so busy building now that you don't have the time to respond? :jump: Hope so!!

Cheers mate,

Priller

[gman5250]

Hey Gordon,

Any news on the arrival of the parts? Or are you so busy building now that you don't have the time to respond? :jump: Hope so!!

Cheers mate,

Priller

The parts should be here by this afternoon. Everything else is ready, the box and cables are detailed and waiting for the install. Hopefully I should be up and running tonight. I'll update the post when that happens.

:applause:

[Jafo]

When testing a monitor there are 2 things you need to do.
Try the problem one on a different computer....you did that.
The other is to try a different monitor on your computer. Did you do that? ...;)

[gman5250]

When testing a monitor there are 2 things you need to do.
Try the problem one on a different computer....you did that.
The other is to try a different monitor on your computer. Did you do that? ...;)

I don't have a second monitor so I wasn't able to test for that. Same for the HDMI 3 cable. The monitor does power up and let me search the options built into the onboard chip. My VGA cable doesn't fit the 1080 TI, but I still have the GTX 780 so I can swap that out to test the monitor if necessary. The new MoBo has onboard video via HDMI so I can test video without a GPU if I have to.

The build will be a straight up assembly. All of the cables are routed and cable management is complete. First boot will be straight into the UEFI with only the onboard M.2 active. If I get a screen there I'll be doing back flips! The rest is straight up. Once I install the new OS I'll plug in the other drives and set up the drive management I'll be able to access the sim and retrieve the data from my old OS.

[Priller]

I don't have a second monitor so I wasn't able to test for that. Same for the HDMI 3 cable. The monitor does power up and let me search the options built into the onboard chip. My VGA cable doesn't fit the 1080 TI, but I still have the GTX 780 so I can swap that out to test the monitor if necessary. The new MoBo has onboard video via HDMI so I can test video without a GPU if I have to.

The build will be a straight up assembly. All of the cables are routed and cable management is complete. First boot will be straight into the UEFI with only the onboard M.2 active. If I get a screen there I'll be doing back flips! The rest is straight up. Once I install the new OS I'll plug in the other drives and set up the drive management I'll be able to access the sim and retrieve the data from my old OS.

Gordon,

Check your mail mate! ;)

Priller

[gman5250]

Update:

I completed the new build today, everything went by the book. As of this post I'm up and running on the new workstation. The updated stats are in my signature.

Holy shift...she's incredibly quiet with the Cooler Master Maker 8 Thermal cooler. I've got two more 200 mm fans coming to vent the case. Next step is a new chassis...my power switch and audio jack are sketchy, so it's time to replace the case after four years being worked hard and put up wet.

It will take a bit of time to move in, update drivers and software etc. and install the sim...again. All of the drives have checked in with no losses of data, so now it's a matter of organizing the new work station and simulator.

From what I can see so far, this build is a monster...worth the wait and investment. Hopefully I can get back to work and finish some projects, make some videos and generally bring my workflow back up to full song.

Thanks everyone for your patience and support. Ya'll got me over the hump.

BTW...the build was very straight forward and logical. I highly recommend taking some time to learn the basics and save a ton on your next system.

:very_drunk:

[Priller]

Brilliant!

How are the temps with that i9 9900K?

Enjoy that new monster mate! :)

Priller

[stansdds]

Sounds like a great computer. Just be sure not to let out any of that magic smoke. If you let the magic smoke out of any of the components, they won't work and you cannot get that smoke to go back inside. Trust me, I know this to be the truth.

[gman5250]

Brilliant!

How are the temps with that i9 9900K?

Enjoy that new monster mate! :)

Priller

I haven't gotten to installing the sim, but average use is around 29 degrees C. The rev limiter is set at 84.

[gman5250]

Sounds like a great computer. Just be sure not to let out any of that magic smoke. If you let the magic smoke out of any of the components, they won't work and you cannot get that smoke to go back inside. Trust me, I know this to be the truth.

I've seen that same smoke come out a motorcycle engine more than once. Same result. :biggrin-new:

[MZee1960]

Sounds like a very nice system, Gordon.

My build was put on hold a while back b/c the tech couldn't source out any more GeForce 1080 Ti's - despite promises to the contrary (back room stock etc.). Now he's singing a new tune and price is up nearly $3k. He wants me to consider i9 9900x deca-core CPU with Asus ROG Strix X299-E MB, Nvidia RTX Titan 24GB PCI-E GPU, Corsair H115i RGB PLATINUM cooler, with 1x 512GB NVMe M.2 PCI-E x4 SSD and 1x 4TB SATA III HDD for storage, 32GB RAM, with Corsair 80 Plus Gold, 850W power supply - all inside an Obsidian 500D RGB case (not sure what all this means, but he says it will make a nice system). I told him I want a computer, .... not a car. Currently still thinking about it as price is now nearly double my original budget. I want to run P3D, but feel this is perhaps overkill.

[TuFun]

Good choice on your build "G" for the type of rendering workload.

CPU performance rendering results.

https://www.anandtech.com/show/13591/the-intel-core-i9-9900k-at-95w-fixing-the-power-for-sff/5

[b52bob]

Sounds like a great computer. Just be sure not to let out any of that magic smoke. If you let the magic smoke out of any of the components, they won't work and you cannot get that smoke to go back inside. Trust me, I know this to be the truth.

It is a well known fact that computers do not work on any properties found on earth. I have found that a sacrifice of two pigeons over a covered motherboard with the cpu installed will cure most ills.

I havent tried it so I cannot claim it works but was told this by my trusted personal guru, Khan.

[gman5250]

Post Build Update

I thought I'd share one or two observations on the new build and a couple of screen caps.

First, I am a dyed in the wool believer in using P3D Add-ons features to their full advantage. I keep 90% of my scenery and aircraft outside of the actual simulator folder. Even having completely re-built the computer I was able to load P3Dv4 from its dedicated SSD and on the first boot it found all of the external drives and folders containing the bulk of my data. Even my FSUIPC and ChasePlane settings booted right in. I'll let the caps speak for themselves, but needless to say I'm happy with the money I spent. :applause:

The CPU and GPU are running "out of the box" settings with no tweaks or OC.

These caps were taken with all sliders WFO, and NVIDIA settings set up to render maximum quality. Frames are in the lower left corner.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7806/46619670104_4973b5616d_o.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7920/32401030177_0efdf38766_o.jpg

[MZee1960]

Installing P3D on it's own dedicated SSD drive will probably become the new norm in the near future, and installing addons using the addon xml method is becoming the new norm amongst developers for P3D - even Orbx will soon adopt it (so they say on their site). This eliminates a lot of extra work when updates are offered for the core sim, and also makes it a breeze to update to a larger SSD drive should space for P3D be an issue down the road.

[gman5250]

Installing P3D on it's own dedicated SSD drive will probably become the new norm in the near future, and installing addons using the addon xml method is becoming the new norm amongst developers for P3D - even Orbx will soon adopt it (so they say on their site). This eliminates a lot of extra work when updates are offered for the core sim, and also makes it a breeze to update to a larger SSD drive should space for P3D be an issue down the road.

If I were to buy my 250 GB SSD today, it would be under fifty bucks. You can see from the screen cap how much open space I have left on that drive.
A 2.5 NAND PC SATA is perfect for simulator installs. They are fast and affordable.
A 1TB WD 2.5 SSD is $120 US.

When ORBX goes addon, that will be ideal. I even keep my MegaSceneryEarth on a dedicated storage drive.

[MZee1960]

If I were to buy my 250 GB SSD today, it would be under fifty bucks. You can see from the screen cap how much open space I have left on that drive.
A 2.5 NAND PC SATA is perfect for simulator installs. They are fast and affordable.
A 1TB WD 2.5 SSD is $120 US.

When ORBX goes addon, that will be ideal. I even keep my MegaSceneryEarth on a dedicated storage drive.



One of the features that make XP more user friendly is their rather simple updating process. Perhaps P3DV5 will surprise us all when it is released. :encouragement:

[blanston12]

Gordon good to see you have your machine up and running again.


Installing P3D on it's own dedicated SSD drive will probably become the new norm in the near future, and installing addons using the addon xml method is becoming the new norm amongst developers for P3D - even Orbx will soon adopt it (so they say on their site). This eliminates a lot of extra work when updates are offered for the core sim, and also makes it a breeze to update to a larger SSD drive should space for P3D be an issue down the road.

I was a big believer installing aircraft outside the main folder, if only so its easy to remove an addon you don't want without having to go into the main folder and do surgery on the files. When V5 comes out I am planning on installing it on its own SSD, I have one spot left in my system for another M2 drive and thats where its going to go.

[Adamski_NZ]

I was a big believer installing aircraft outside the main folder, if only so its easy to remove an addon you don't want without having to go into the main folder and do surgery on the files. When V5 comes out I am planning on installing it on its own SSD, I have one spot left in my system for another M2 drive and thats where its going to go.

I'm also a great fan of installing my add-on aircraft to a location outside of P3D root.

I cobbled together a "method" for semi-automating the process (with a couple of batch files). All described here: https://www.nzfsim.org/fsx-p3d-tweaks/add-ons-outside-p3d-root/

It looks overly complex at first sight - but it's really quite simple in practice. I just had to "over-explain" it all to cover all bases (and levels of user expertise). I can usually install one in a couple of minutes.

Adam.

[MZee1960]

I'm also a great fan of installing my add-on aircraft to a location outside of P3D root.

I cobbled together a "method" for semi-automating the process (with a couple of batch files). All described here: https://www.nzfsim.org/fsx-p3d-tweaks/add-ons-outside-p3d-root/

It looks overly complex at first sight - but it's really quite simple in practice. I just had to "over-explain" it all to cover all bases (and levels of user expertise). I can usually install one in a couple of minutes.

Adam.

Your method seems easier than the one I read over at Avsim by @poppet in the P3D forum (addon xml), Adam.
Thank-you for the link for future referrence.

My main concern with sims is what to do when space on the drive (SSD) is running low. This will become a more common issue in the future as developers are constantly improving the visual quality of addons, hence increasing the GB's they use up on the drive. I read in a forum post st SOH, that if your sim is on a separate, dedicated drive outside of the main OS drive, then the process of moving everything to a larger drive is as easy as installing the new, larger drive, copy/paste everything over to the new drive, then going back and re-naming the new drive to the same letter as the old, smaller drive, and you're done. This is perhaps, IMHO, the biggest advantage of having the sim on a separate, dedicated drive.