Thrustmaster 16000 m rudder issue

[highpockets]

Any of you had the rudder go "wankey" and not respond? The a/c doesnt respond. Just goes in circles no matter which theatre I try nor which A/C, nor even after changing USB and/or settings. I have another that has some buttons that dont work but the stick did last I used it. I will give that a try. Any tips appreciated.
May have to do a major overhaul based on some Youtube videos.

[_486_Col_Wolf]

HP,

First thing I would do is look at the axis assignments of all of the hardware in the CFS2 Controller Assignments tab. Make sure each axis is assigned to the proper function. If all this is correct you can try reinstalling the software for each and doing the recalibration. These are the most common issues with axis response failures.

If your setup is the Flight Pack and all components are daisy chained together to one USB plug, the issue could be a bad USB cable, USB plug or main PC board of the components (usually located in the stick base).

Non functioning or erratic stick buttons may also be an indication that the tactile switches under the buttons are worn and need to be replaced. I've had to replace the hat switch on my Thrustmaster HOTAS Cougar stick and some of the other buttons are now showing signs of wear and may also need replacement.

Unfortunately, in our age of throw-away and replace society, repairing electronic components is no longer cost effective unless you can get the parts, have the tools necessary and do it yourself. If you decide to go this route, do not count on any technical help or diagrams from Thustmaster as their business relies on people willing to replace components when they go bad but their excellent parts department can get you the right parts if you can give them the proper name or number of the parts needed. Being in the electronics repair business myself, I have been fortunate enough to be able to repair my components as needed.

Please keep us updated on your progress as I'm sure there are many people out there who would benefit from anything you may discover.

[highpockets]

Col. Wolf
I am sure it is the pot. in the top if the stick. Some guys have cleaned with alcohol. I have some electircal contact cleaner spray I may try. I saw a youtube for replacing the potentiometer with a Hall sensor and magnets. Not ready for that yet.
I went and got my old Thrustmaster 16000m that had 2 bad buttons on the base, hooked it up and away we went to shoot down some Zero's and Petes.
I will follow up on contacting Thrustmaster and some of the other possiblities. I dont throw anything away. I am not an electrical engineer but have replaced bad capacitors in circuit boards of monitors when helping a non-profit with their donated computer equipment. Thats about it.
By the was, took yours and RWIILLS input back last march and set my sensivities as recommetnded and screwed down my stick on a board to sit on my lap instead of loose up on my computer desk. Looked like all was working well until the rudder went nuts. My P-400 , Corsair etc. was going in circles on the runway.
I will post anything I find that works.
Thanks

[_486_Col_Wolf]

HP

Electrical (Potentiometer) contact cleaner is your best bet. You can spray it on instead of having to get in with a Q-tip for alcohol. I use it on everything that has scratchy pots from audio equipment to my guitars and of course my joystick/throttle/rudder setup.

A pot that gives you full rudder in one direction could be one of two things. Either the pot is bad (shorted or open) or one of the three wires from the pot is disconnected. Either way is an easy fix.

Hall sensors are the pots of the future. I currently use the Thrustmaster HOTAS warthog stick base (sold as a stand alone part) but with the original Cougar stick plugged into it (they are interchangeable). I couldn't be happier with the control and accuracy the hall sensors give you on the stick. I still use the Cougar base without a stick plugged and the stick functions turned off to accommodate the throttle. But the throttle is getting old and I may replace the pot with a hall sensor in the future.

I also use the Saitek combat rudder pedals with toe brakes. These are stand alone pedals but unfortunately are no longer available.