I can't get my new PC to work.
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Thread: I can't get my new PC to work.

  1. #1

    I can't get my new PC to work.

    I need help with my new pc build and I think I have an idea on how to solve it after reading various PC forums online. But I figured the gurus here are usually better help, because you guys build PCs for FSX.

    Here's my new system.
    CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
    CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
    MB: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
    Mem: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
    HD's: OS on (1) Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
    (2) Samsung 850 Pro Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
    VC: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Founders Edition Video Card
    Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
    PS: Corsair 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
    OD: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
    OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit

    Now, I only have the 500GB drive hooked up, since it is the drive Win 10 will be installed on. So, here's what is happening;
    1) When I press the case power button, it doesn't turn on. I'm looking to see if I have the connection from the case to the MOBO correct, but I think they are.
    2) When I press the power button on the MOBO, the system turns on, the cooler changes color, then it shuts down. Then it restarts again and keeps doing that over and over.

    What I've read at other sites is that it might be a) due to the fan controls and the fans not spinning up fast enough. They say to "hand start" the fans if this happens. Then if the system starts, go into the bios and set the fan speed for 100% until the fan control software is loaded on to the system.
    b) is that the power is being overwhelmed due to incorrect power settings causing the system to not draw enough power and forcing itself to shutdown.

    Do you guys have any experience with this? I already returned the PSU once thinking it was a PSU issue, but the new PSU works fine and the problem is still happening.

    Thanks. If I had any idea how much work building this system was going to turn out to be, I would have bought a finished system. Live and learn I guess.

  2. #2
    1) I assume you have the memory modules securely installed in their slots

    2) Check and make sure the CPU fan spins.

    2) Verify no bent pins on the CPU, and that the marked corner of the cpu is aligned with the making of the CPU socket on the motherboard.

    4) Both power cords for the motherboard, the large one, can not be missed, and then the 4 pin connector for power to the CPU.

    5) the case has wires coming from the from, which include a 2-pin wire that goes to the from connection located somewhere on the edge of the motherboard.

    Posting close-up images of the case and wiring could give up an insight on other possible causes if the above steps do not resolve the issue.

    Remember, when powering on the computer for the first time it may restart 4-6 times for the bios to auto configure itself. (at least that happened to the last 3-4 computers I built over the past two years.)

    I hope these tips will get you on your way.
    One day without laughter, is one day without living.
    One day without Flight Simming, is one day lost living.

  3. #3
    Ben there too. Most times it was memory that was not compatiable with the mobo. On rare occasions it was a faulty mobo. Try to boot it with a single stick of memory. If that fails use any stick of another brand.

  4. #4
    It could be at bent CPU pin (it happens) or poor contact between the CPU and Cooler interface.
    Been there and done both.
    "Illegitimum non carborundum".

    Corsair Obsidian 900D Full Tower. MSI X99A XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM. Intel Core i7 Extreme Edition 5960X Haswell-E LGA2011-3 8 Core @ 4.8GHz. Thermaltake Water 3 Riing RGB Cooler Premium Edition 6 x Riing 12 fans. ASUS ROG Strix GeForce RTX 2080 Ti OC Edition, 11GBx2 in SLI.
    Corsair Dominator Platinum 32G 2800MHz DDR4 Kit. LG BH16NS40 BluRay Reader/Writer. Corsair CMPSU-HX1000i FM 1000Watt x2.
    Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD x 3. Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SSD x1.
    Western Digital WD Gold 4TB Datacenter HDD.
    Acer Predator X34P 34inch IPS LED Curved Gaming Monitor 3440x1440 120Hz

  5. #5
    Well, I have the button on the case working after messing with the connections from the case to the MB. However, I let it turn itself off and on about 12 times and it never booted up. Also, I checked that all of the fans were spinning up and they were. Here are some pics as requested and I did check the pins on the CPU before I installed it and I'm quite sure there isn't a bent pin on the CPU. But if that is the choice as a last resort I'll look again.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2521.jpg   IMG_2520.jpg   IMG_2519.jpg   IMG_2518.jpg  

  6. #6
    Sorry to hear of your new PC woes Sundog.

    One thought I had.

    It might pay to re-check the front panel connectors one more time, just as a sanity check, and also make sure they haven't become disconnected by accident.

    Another thing might be to take out certain components like the GFX card, RAM etc. (a pain, but if your FP connectors are correct and still no joy, it's worth doing) and then see if you get a successful boot with them removed.

    Good luck!

    Cheers

    Paul

  7. #7
    I had a similar problem a few builds ago and it turned out to be a redundant stand-off pillar under the motherboard causing a short. If you still haven't had any success with the problem, try running the system on a bench outside the case and see if it starts that way.

    As you say you've got Win10, does that mean that it worked long enough to install it? If not, how did you get the OS onto your system?

  8. #8
    I haven't got it to boot to bios, it just starts then shuts itself off, etc. I let it go about 12 times for the bios to set itself and then shut it off. I've read that the advanced fan controls can cause it do that, but I won't get back to it until the second week of January as I'm on vacation for the holidays.

  9. #9
    You probably know this already but if you pop the battery out for a minute and reinstall it your bios will be reset to the original OOB settings.
    "Illegitimum non carborundum".

    Corsair Obsidian 900D Full Tower. MSI X99A XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM. Intel Core i7 Extreme Edition 5960X Haswell-E LGA2011-3 8 Core @ 4.8GHz. Thermaltake Water 3 Riing RGB Cooler Premium Edition 6 x Riing 12 fans. ASUS ROG Strix GeForce RTX 2080 Ti OC Edition, 11GBx2 in SLI.
    Corsair Dominator Platinum 32G 2800MHz DDR4 Kit. LG BH16NS40 BluRay Reader/Writer. Corsair CMPSU-HX1000i FM 1000Watt x2.
    Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD x 3. Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SSD x1.
    Western Digital WD Gold 4TB Datacenter HDD.
    Acer Predator X34P 34inch IPS LED Curved Gaming Monitor 3440x1440 120Hz

  10. #10
    Do you hear any beeps from your motherboard?

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by wombat666 View Post
    You probably know this already but if you pop the battery out for a minute and reinstall it your bios will be reset to the original OOB settings.
    I actually didn't know that, but I'll try that first when I return from vacation. This is the first PC I've built in almost twenty years. A lot has changed since then. 😉

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Sundog View Post
    I haven't got it to boot to bios, it just starts then shuts itself off, etc. I let it go about 12 times for the bios to set itself and then shut it off. I've read that the advanced fan controls can cause it do that, but I won't get back to it until the second week of January as I'm on vacation for the holidays.
    When mine did the same thing some months back it turned out to be a bad power supply.

  13. #13

    There's a lot of it about...

    What a coincidence: my rig has been playing up the same way for a couple of months off and on. I've fitted a new PSU - it worked well for a while then played up again. The front panel startup button was successfully replaced with a simple push-to-make button but now it's playing up again.

    Each time the machine starts up normally you get a beep! when it's done the POST (power on self test) checks. When it plays up there's no beep but the machine makes like it's starting then conks out and tries again. About six times. Then gives up.

    There's one common factor in all this: the power cable has to be unplugged from the 'pooter to check anything, fit any spares etc and last time the only thing done was to unplug the power cable and later plug it back in, turn on the power and try again: it started normally (phew).

    Check your power cable: the one that carries power from the mains socket or UPS to the computer. That's what I'm doing when I get home from the holidays.
    Tom
    __________________________________________________ ___________________________________________
    Wisdom is the principal thing; therefore get wisdom: and with all thy getting get understanding. Proverbs 4:7

  14. #14
    Sundog, have you checked out the troubleshooting section of your MB manual (6-3 Troubleshooting)? Also, your MB has Debug LEDs which will give you a code which you can look up in section 6-4 (Debug LED Codes) in the MB manual. If it doesn't even get that far, as I said in my earlier post, it could be something shorting the MB - I had exactly the same symptoms as you and this was the problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by hairyspin View Post
    Each time the machine starts up normally you get a beep! when it's done the POST (power on self test) checks. When it plays up there's no beep but the machine makes like it's starting then conks out and tries again. About six times. Then gives up.
    Most new cases don't have the required small internal speaker fitted any more. Even when they do, many (most?) new motherboards don't have a speaker header to be able to connect it up.

  15. #15
    I've finished my new build (except for cable braiding) and I had problems with it in game, BSD, flickering and just plain old crashing.
    Decided to go back to basics and removed the thermal paste that came applied to my cooling block, replaced it with my usual Arctic Silver and a piece of card ..................... no drama after that.
    I guessed (and it was just a gut feeling) that these 'ready to use' cooling blocks might just be a little light on with the paste.
    Worked for me.
    "Illegitimum non carborundum".

    Corsair Obsidian 900D Full Tower. MSI X99A XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM. Intel Core i7 Extreme Edition 5960X Haswell-E LGA2011-3 8 Core @ 4.8GHz. Thermaltake Water 3 Riing RGB Cooler Premium Edition 6 x Riing 12 fans. ASUS ROG Strix GeForce RTX 2080 Ti OC Edition, 11GBx2 in SLI.
    Corsair Dominator Platinum 32G 2800MHz DDR4 Kit. LG BH16NS40 BluRay Reader/Writer. Corsair CMPSU-HX1000i FM 1000Watt x2.
    Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD x 3. Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SSD x1.
    Western Digital WD Gold 4TB Datacenter HDD.
    Acer Predator X34P 34inch IPS LED Curved Gaming Monitor 3440x1440 120Hz

  16. #16
    That Arctic Silver is a very good paste. I have noticed, though, that a fairly small amount is sufficient for most requirements.
    Something else I've found: It gets everywhere. I spread to stuff I never touched I thought, and getting it off my hands was a real adventure. I took to wearing latex gloves (the ones doctors use in their office) to solve that, and just have to be super careful. I keep tissues by the box nearby for "spreads", too
    Glad you got things squared away! Now go have fun.
    Remember, though, dust is the sworn enemy of computer cooling, and it doesn't take much to drive temps up. Another reason to keep the excess paste cleaned off everything it's not supposed to be on! It's a dust magnet for sure
    Again, enjoy!
    Pat☺

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