tips and tricks

[Henry]

place them here
H

[rustyyoke]

When all else has failed......Lighter fluid and matches!

[Collin]

When all else has failed......Lighter fluid and matches!


Or give 'em to the kids.:costumes:

regards Collin:ernae:

[rustyyoke]

Tought I'd do some cleaning and oranigizing.

Copy some of my posts here.

************************************************** ******
Glue....


Ah...What the heck! lol

Not too much I can go on there.

I'm still kinda stuck with the Midevil tube of testors cement. That fancy new looking bottle just seems a little too forgien for me. I heard that it works really well though. It has the anti clogging poker needle thingy that is supposed to work really well. Don't think I could say a bad thing about it. Never heard a bad thing.

But that good old tube that's been around for 35 years just brings back the memories.

Go with the good toxic red stuff...I'd never try the green tube of non toxic. Both by testors.

Best technique that I found was laying out a paper towel to my left for the glue. Then a small piece of paper under the front of the tube. Then get me my tooth pics. Tube flat, sgueeze a little and catch the glue with the tip of the tooth pic. Dab it where I need. The piece of paper will catch anything that oozes out of the tube as it sits. I will sometimes take from that.

The paper towel is to wipe off the glue as it begins to harden on the toothpick. Just stroke the toothpick on it and it removes it. Do it as the glue becomes "stringy". If those "strings" are too heavy and land on your project, it can be marked for life:banghead:

Your painting techniques will come back to you so amazingly quick...you'll be stunned and thrilled!

Work space.

Any bench, table or what ever will work, that you find comfortable.

I first lay out "FRESH", clean, unprinted cardboard. Unprinted cause it's more appealing to the eyes. Tape down the corners for stability. This gives me a very pleasent work surface and protects whats underneath. Good for cutting on the trees (Sprue). Xacto goes through, no problem, the cardboard protects it. Spill a little paint...dries quickly. Glue...No harm done. Gets old and narley...get a fresh one.:)

Have a lttle clip fan too for warm days and fresh air. Helps drying as well.

Now one thing that really got me into trouble.

My magnifying Lamp.

I severly needed good light and I broke out this dirty, busted up, magnifying lamp. Takes a 60 watt bulb.( I hate flouresent lighting.) I found this thing at Staples awhile back for $19.99.

Well the trouble was that I started to use the magnifying glass and those freaking cool paint brushes I mentioned.

I swear! The detailing has been never ending since! So obsessive over it, that I broke! I had to walk away from it! lol

Yes writing notes is soo very important!

But I've gotten lazy with pen and paper now.

On your computer is this cool little accessory called note pad.

Copy and paste any tips that you want to remember and save them. Then print them if you like. Makes a good place to store links on too as well.

I have many titled as "painting" "washing" "glueing" and on and on. Store them in a folder called whatever you like.

Thanks Poppy!

This has been mighty pleasent:)

P.S. Let us know if you can't find that cool little dohicky thing called "note pad" on your computer.

[rustyyoke]

Paints,

Testors Model masters enamel.

I really don't care for the water based acrylics. I believe that they have become popular due to the low toxic levels, advancement and easy clean ups.

They take longer to dry. If slightly too thick, they can crack.

I'm not sure if you have yet been familairized with "Washing" (A very nice weathering technique), But the product that seems superiour is Testors "Dull Cote".

You spray this clear coat product over your finalized paint project to seal it up and protect it.

Washing is 1 part black paint to 10 part paint thinner. Any colors work (Brown) at any strenght you choose.

This wash is then brushed on to your project and gives the depths and age apperance that you see on these wonderful pics that have been posted.

If "Dull cote" is not used, the thinner or acrylics are just gonna wash away your paint. Thefore you can kiss all of your hard labor away!

Some use dull cote on acrylics. You have to be very careful doing this. Acrylics have to thoroughly dry for weeks. If not...cracks will develope.....therefore...ruining your whole project.

It dries rapidly..so fast it can "pull" the acrylic and cause wrinkles.

To me...It just ain't worth the risk. I've always learned never to mix the two.

I think I also saw what is called "Smudgeing" in Corpse Grinders Aircraft.

Clear coated. Then get some old dried up black...ya know ...all thick and mushy. Pasty kinda. Then push it into the grooves to be darkend, Then wipe off the extra with a moistened towel. Water for acrylics...Paint thinner for enamels. "Dull Cote" needed once again for protection.

See how wise you are to ask such questions over some silly paint:d

Really makes a difference.

Don't worry about washing technigues just yet. just focus on the basics like the paint that your gonna choose.

Gonna come back with a lnk to some REALLY cool brushes!!!

[rustyyoke]

Brushes,

Well, I sure didn't come back with the outstanding pics that I had hoped for, but I did find a link to these outstanding brushes.

http://www.silverbrush.com/art/art_p...ling_sets.html (http://www.silverbrush.com/art/art_products/sterling_sets.html)

When I was a kid, I thought that I was the detail magician and the brush size of #0000 was my magic wand.:redf:

Starting back up again from a second time, my size #0000 brush was pretty much kuputs and really began to look like Marge Simpsons hair, but multicolored.

I go to a nearby hobby shop and can't find a replacement. I ask the young guy behind the counter and he ask's "A What??" ..."Ok.. Where could I find your fine detail brushes?"

He brings me to where I'd been and shows me the testor multipack for $2.99. White handled and disposible looking. "Well...Ok, thank you anyhow." Smile as I leave:d and grumble :mad:as I get back in my car.

Off to the other hobby shop. Busy place. But all brushes behind the counter and I can't see a damn thing cause I'm too old and need glasses!!!:banghead:

Nice young girl ask's "Can I help you?" "Hi yes, I was looking for a #0000 paint brush." "A what???" (grumble,grumble,grumble) :mad:Nice voice " Very fine paint brushes.:d"She say's well, I never heard of a #0000 brush, but I do have some detail brushes. (ERRR...The Cheapies again!:banghead:) Almost politly walked out, but then said "Ok...Sure lets see them"

She hands the packet to me. [Mentally] Huh?? Move my head back and forth four time trying to gain my focus, then.....Dang!!!......Dang!!!! I can barely see them!!!!.....Dang!!!!......Dang!!!![all mentally ofcourse]

Wow...these babies were like 8x small than I had ever seen! I bought 2 packs. Got to my care and began to look at them in the light. Went back inside the store and got another pack!

I wanted to kiss her!!! And probably thank her for the brushes as well:d

These come in various sizes. I'm now looking at set #ss-114, 3 for $4.99.
I think the smallest is close to drill size .024. Maybe the size of med strength fishing line.

Tell ya..I was very impressed.

The name Sterling Studio Silver Brush Unlimited.

If the hobbyshop don't have them, check out the arts and crafts stores.

Ya know.....Where the little old ladies go?

[TICTOC]

Panel lines.

I haven't built a model aircraft in decades, but used to get great results (with a lot of practice) by going over aircraft panel lines, after painting, with the head of a pin, to scratch in the lines a little deeper. Gave a great 3 dimensional look and depth.

This applies to panel lines on vehicles as well as brick walls and the likes in diorama.

[egypt]

........TAMIYA XF=63 acrylic (german grey) is good for aged rubber

............fine scalpel/craft knife is essential
......... (have plenty if replacement blades handy)

...........a fine jewellers saw is very handy

.... BADGER 150XL Double action airbrush set up is base line gun
..................(INC BADGER 25/ 35LB-PSI compressor)

....a largish cardboard box and extraction fan makes a good spray booth
.....http://www.automotiveforums.com/t413847.html

i use DELTA(germany) sable and acrylic fine brushs for delicate handpainting (canopies etc)

....i use a mag headgear unit with two inbuilt 2x aaa torches (angled so they come together at a preset distance from the work and have various magnification (great for any tiny stuff "anywhere" )

....practice "dry brushing" great for raised gauge sides, panels, and cockpit weathering

.imho .HUMBROL and TESTORS enamel oil paints are consistent in color and depth. for handbrushing
...(HUMBROL CANS ARE 14ML as compared to 10ML for a lot of others
.................also VOGART are true (clothing paints --oil)

.............Stabilo CarbOthello soft pastel pencils for weathering,exaust etc.

..............HUMBROL AIRFIX CEMENT(applied with a fine dental scaper )

...........and "white glue"(PVA woodglue etc) for clear canopies etc to stop acrylic damage done by fumes

..........TAMIYA masking tape and HUMBROL MASKOL masking fluid

..........TAMIYA PUTTY good (but there are others)
............... plus a good selection of miniature files/sandpaper sticks

........." FUTURE" (furniture polish for clear stuff and finishes)

............".MOST IMPOTANT" some even respectable kits like ACADEMY have
cr*p decals so save yourself grief and use decal "setting liquids"

like "MICROSET"for sliding and "MICROSOL" which give a more seated "PAINTED ON" look:ernae:
......http://www.world-war-2-airplane-model.com/decals-and-markings.html

...(i sometimes give a fine coat of light grey/blue to simulate an aged look on roundels and letters

.........use shaped pieces of blutack to hold pieces for working/painting

.........dry fit all pieces to ensure a good fit

.......coupla layers of shaped masking tape makes great seat belting etc

...good hints here:d GOOGLE to learn more
.......http://www.world-war-2-airplane-model.com

[strikehawk]

Paints,

Testors Model masters enamel.

I really don't care for the water based acrylics. I believe that they have become popular due to the low toxic levels, advancement and easy clean ups.

They take longer to dry. If slightly too thick, they can crack.

I'm not sure if you have yet been familairized with "Washing" (A very nice weathering technique), But the product that seems superiour is Testors "Dull Cote".

You spray this clear coat product over your finalized paint project to seal it up and protect it.

Washing is 1 part black paint to 10 part paint thinner. Any colors work (Brown) at any strenght you choose.

This wash is then brushed on to your project and gives the depths and age apperance that you see on these wonderful pics that have been posted.

If "Dull cote" is not used, the thinner or acrylics are just gonna wash away your paint. Thefore you can kiss all of your hard labor away!

Some use dull cote on acrylics. You have to be very careful doing this. Acrylics have to thoroughly dry for weeks. If not...cracks will develope.....therefore...ruining your whole project.

It dries rapidly..so fast it can "pull" the acrylic and cause wrinkles.

To me...It just ain't worth the risk. I've always learned never to mix the two.

I think I also saw what is called "Smudgeing" in Corpse Grinders Aircraft.

Clear coated. Then get some old dried up black...ya know ...all thick and mushy. Pasty kinda. Then push it into the grooves to be darkend, Then wipe off the extra with a moistened towel. Water for acrylics...Paint thinner for enamels. "Dull Cote" needed once again for protection.

See how wise you are to ask such questions over some silly paint:d

Really makes a difference.

Don't worry about washing technigues just yet. just focus on the basics like the paint that your gonna choose.

Gonna come back with a lnk to some REALLY cool brushes!!!

Addendum to Paints:

When I do get around to building kits I use the following

Paint, Testors or Humbrol and occasionally Flo-Quil Railroad colors. All are easy to use with a brush or gun. If I spray I use straight lacquer thinner, I know, it melts the plastic,BUT, if you turn up the air pressure most of the solvent is gone before it hits the primer. This makes it easier to and faster to get to the next color.

For figures, I model 28-30mm, I use cheap acrylic from the local craft store. For years I turned my nose up at them until I saw a Warhammer army that looked like it had been painted with oils. I view acrylic paint like old girlfriends, Cheap/Easy/ and they clean up nicely. Dry brushing with water base is a lot easier and I have more control over how much color I lay down.

Washes, this is the phase that always gave me fits. The solution, go to whatever local store that carries Games Workshop products. On their paint rack you'll find various colored "inks". Thin with water or alcohol and apply. For figures I use a #0 brush, larger items I shoot with my airbrush thinned with alcohol. Put it on flat paint as the mix will spread, using it on gloss makes everything puddle and look sloppy.

Note, Alcohol and Dull-Cote do not play well together, if you shoot anything thinned with alcohol onto Dull-Cote the finish will fog. The upside is that I model Sci-Fi and some of my models have a nice "salted" and corroded look to them. Always put he clear coats on last.

One thing on decals and clear coats, even if the final finish is flat, you need to lay the decals on a gloss surface. I shoot 3 light coats of Gloss-Cote thinned with lacquer thinner and wait for at least 3 hours, I'm always in a hurry, overnight is best. Place your makings as instructed and I use Dio-Sol to literally melt the decal into the paint. Once you add it just step away from you model and go play flight sim for a while. This is one step I do not rush, the decal will wrinkle and look like you've made a very bad mistake, ignore it, once dry it will be sucked down over every nook and cranny on the surface. Seal with another light coat of gloss and then hit it with as many THIN and LIGHT coats of flat needed to kill the shine and make it looked lived in.

I'll try to post some shots of my figures and vehicles that I used to use in war gaming sometime soon.