"Loss Of Innocence,Will It Ever Be The Same" [Archive]

JohnReid

March 31st, 2009, 15:07

Changed my mind!
In keeping with my WW1 theme I have changed the storyline of my next 1/16th scale aircraft diorama.
The focus now will be around 1918 when an airman in uniform has just returned from the war to his hometown backyard.He is standing there hand in hand with his son looking at his backyard flier project that he was working on prior to his military service.
I want to title it "Loss of Innocence,Will It Ever Be The Same."
The "loss of innocence" theme is central to both the history of aviation itself and the man.
The flier will be as he left it partially under tarps and weathered ,with the grass etc ..grown around it,almost like the family considered it bad luck to change anything while he was in the military.A recruiting or victory poster on a telephone pole (and a few other things that I haven't thought about yet ) will be included to help the viewer with the storyline.
The exact date and country ,I haven't nailed down yet.I have done German,American and Canadian themes to date maybe a British theme would be in order.

Curtis P40

March 31st, 2009, 15:37

:wavey: I'm waiting "patiently" for this to come to life. Nice story line. I've always thought of all the returning pilots from the second war who continued on in aviation, not really thinking of the ones from the first war. If you exclude the barnstormers and Airmail pilots. The original EAA ?
Curt

JohnReid

April 1st, 2009, 08:49

This is a pic taken before the Great War when he was still building his backyard flier and was the inspiration for the next diorama.No it is not a WW1 airplane but it is a WW1 storyline.The airplane actually is only a prop to help tell the real story.
The next step will be to build a small scale mock up out of foam board so I can play around a bit with the composition.I like a lot of the elements that are already in the picture above such as the wingtip on the neighbors side of the fence.The relative neatness of the neighbors yard compared to our subjects preoccupation with things aeronautical.The washing on the line is also a very nice human touch.
At present I am only planning for two figures ,the returning airman in uniform and his son standing hand-in-hand.
I am leaving it to the viewers imagination and the title of the piece to help make the connection to the storyline.
What does my imagination come up with?The airman is he wondering "can I return to building this with the same enthusiasm after everything I have witnessed in the air war?

harleyman

April 2nd, 2009, 03:52

I'm looking forward to this one John..:woot:

I think its a great story line.....:applause:

JohnReid

April 2nd, 2009, 07:39

Why this diorama? <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   Although I am not a veteran myself I come from a family of WW1 and WW2 vets.Although quite young at the time, I grew up in an area that was reserved for vets and their families after WW2, so I have witnessed first hand the difficulties a lot of vets had in adjusting to civilian life again.I even had the wonderful opportunity to fly as co-pilot with many of them,even some who were aces in Europe and Korea.
I have witnessed some who became airline chief pilots and even presidents of aircraft manufacturing companies, some top flight lawyers and doctors and others who unfortunately ended up on skid row.
To all of them this diorama is dedicated.

JohnReid

April 3rd, 2009, 07:50

1/48 Mock-up and research stage. <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   Diorama #4 is finally underway.I am leaning towards the Curtiss DIII/Ingram Foster pusher as a general example for the airplane that I will be building.I am planning to have a little fun with this ,in that I want to take myself back to around 1914 and think of what I would build using the available knowledge of the day.
I have decided to go with the Wright bros. general wing design mainly because I don't want to scratch build all those very flimsy ribs.(I already have a kit of a 1/16th flier from Model Expo which I plan to raid for the above)Wing development designs by 1914 had progressed somewhat but the way I plan to do this diorama small changes in camber etc..will not even be noticeable.Other than the ribs the rest will be scratch.This is the most freedom in modeling that I have ever allowed myself and I plan to have a lot of fun with it.
The 1/48 scale foamboard mock up is well underway and I am using an old 1/39scale biplane model for composition purposes.At 1/16th scale this diorama will be as large as the Jenny at 4feet by 5 feet which will allow me for only 2 instead of three backyards.For interest sake and composition considerations I plan to add an old car(maybe the military vets car?)
There will be no freestanding building in the composition but I may add a small lean-to type structure.The fencing will make a nice perimeter on three sides but I am undecided about how to do the side which would make up the row housings walls.Any suggestions would be more than welcome!!!

JohnReid

April 4th, 2009, 07:06

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/CurtissDIIIheadlesspusher001.jpg

JohnReid

April 4th, 2009, 07:33

1/48 trial mockup.
The airplane's wingspan has been reduced to 1/48 scale,the rest is still 1/39.My airplane will have about a 30 foot wingspan.The other dimensions I haven't worked out yet but will be very much like the Curtiss DIII pusher.A single engine with a direct drive prop situated behind the pilot.An 80 Hp Ox 5 would be nice but my guy probably wouldn't be able to afford it just yet after buying all that wood and fabric.
The diorama is way too square right now with too many right angles.I anticipate that this composition is going to be a real challenge to make look right and get the storyline across to the viewer.My dioramas usually develop a lot over time so I am not too worried yet.
The inner fences are 4 feet and the perimeter fence is 6 feet high.Part of the neighbors yard will have a short lane way along one of the fences with a parked Model T car or truck.The 6 foot fence will be great for victory posters.

Please note:I am in urgent need of dimensions for the Curtiss Headless Pusher aircraft.They need not be to scale,just the life size would do.

JohnReid

April 8th, 2009, 14:58

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierquarterscalemockup002.jpg

JohnReid

April 8th, 2009, 16:03

harleyman

April 8th, 2009, 18:27

To my eys John its just hard to believe the humble start of this into what I know you will have at the end.....

Can't wait to see this unfold.... :applause:

Killbilly

April 8th, 2009, 19:41

I made up this 1/48 scale mock up.The airplane has a 30 foot wing span at 1:1 scale.
My problem with this composition is the row housing ,which usually has the same width backyard.I want to keep it as it represents urban middle class housing of the time.The wing over the fence is part of the sub-story which I also want to keep in.The houses rear facade would probably been about the same in design and dimensions ,so how would you guys go about making the composition more asymmetrical ?

Maybe you could try building it on a slight diagonal to the base so that you would be cutting off a tiny corner of the builder's yard and adding a tiny corner of a third yard and fence on the other side of the neighbor? That would help get rid of the bisymmetry.

sberlins

April 8th, 2009, 21:35

This may sound odd, and would limit the view angle of the diorama, but from this view perspective, a large interior section of an old tenement window...like the viewer was standing in an upper floor room and looking out and down.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/CurtissDIIIheadlesspusher001.jpg

JohnReid

April 16th, 2009, 06:52

Brickwork, beyond the barnsiding look! <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   Well here is something different,making brickwork for dioramas.After having spent some time on research there is one particular method that I found on another forum that I really like.It requires making the bricks individually out of artist's watercolor paper and then gluing them to foam board to make a brick wall.I haven't found anything else that looks as realistic as this in any scale.
I expect that it will be time consuming to do but luckily I only have one backyard wall to do.The same watercolor paper can be used to make foundations and stone faces too.Should be fun!

vstudios

April 16th, 2009, 07:04

If this sounds silly please excuse my comments :help:

maybe use sand paper for the brick effect and stick that to the foam ? to give it that rough feel and effect.

michael davies

April 16th, 2009, 10:49

John, regarding composition, heres a couple of thoughts, the original image shows a building of 3 stories, that might give you a better and higher back drop ?, the rear fence, maybe make it lower of foliage or simply backing onto fields as opposed to city scape ?.

One final thought, perhaps moving the whole diorama two houses down so the plane is in the yard with the washing in and the wing overlaps the other fence, and then include that right angled house extension and path way between that fence and house, maybe having the wings hanging over both fences ?.

The latter would involve more right angles but then you would be playing on that fact, making your diorama more rigid and corner like and would probably give a more cramped and intense feel, rather than a free flowing open diorama.

Just some thoughts and observations, either way it'll look good.

Best

Michael

JohnReid

April 17th, 2009, 06:32

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardfliermockup006.jpg

JohnReid

April 17th, 2009, 06:34

If this sounds silly please excuse my comments :help:

maybe use sand paper for the brick effect and stick that to the foam ? to give it that rough feel and effect.
Good idea but I think a little too uniform for old brick.Thanks!

JohnReid

April 17th, 2009, 06:36

JohnReid

April 17th, 2009, 07:41

Do I ever have a new appreciation for all those who design buildings and such!
This little mock up took me almost 2 weeks to figure out(must be gettin old I guess)
What you see here is the different levels that had to be worked out before any other work could begin.The base itself will have to be in multi-layers of plywood and then covered with landscaping materials.I can already see nice possibilities of all kinds for this arrangement.
The Flier's wingspan I will cut back to 25 feet to better fit the backyard(something like the Curtiss's Racer).The outer perimeter is actually part of the base which will be added to the 4X5 foot diorama and probably painted matte black or a dark natural wood like ebony or dark walnut.
The car will probably be a Model T in keeping with the middle class storyboard idea.The outer fence is 6 feet high while the inner fences are 4.
Now it is on to work on the backwall facade and where to put all the doors and windows.I left room behind the windows for inside lighting.http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
It has been brought to my attention that the backyard is way too big for a typical English storyline .Therefore that will narrow it down to the US or Canada.However I could add an Enlgish flavor by using a poster that was used in North America to recruit Britishers living here.

Catfish

April 17th, 2009, 10:31

Hello,
looks good, but the AH frogeye sprite is waaayyy too modern :gossip: lol
You are really doing some great work ! Looking forward to the development of this scenario ..
Good luck and thanks for sharing your thoughts,
Catfish

JohnReid

April 19th, 2009, 11:05

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardfliermockup022.jpg

michael davies

April 19th, 2009, 12:51

Works for me ! :)

Best

Michael

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardfliermockup022.jpg

JohnReid

April 20th, 2009, 06:49

What to leave in,what to leave out?
The older I get the more I wonder will I ever live long enough to see all my projects finished,well the answer of course is no because I keep starting new ones.This has especially been on my mind recently when I was debating whether to start another long term project or not or finish up what I already have on the go.Sure,all my life I have known that we are all just one heart beat away and have had many close calls to prove it.So what !you say ,that is just the nature of life.Why should an artists life be any different?Maybe being involved in the creative life and being goal oriented I sometimes tend to lose sight of the process.It is the process of creating that is the reward not the end game.
I have always known this but as you get older you tend to want to finish things up.
Last night I watched a tv show about what would happen if man ceased to exist today?It kind of brought me back on track.We know that nothing lasts forever but this show really brought it home.In about 10,000 years there would be little trace that we ever existed.In a 100 years most of the history of our existence would be gone.Books,films,DVD's,computers etc... Gone forever.
So where does that leave us? It is the process that matters,the fun of creating in the here and now.Forget about finishing ,that is just an illusion.Funny how a program like that can put things back into perspective.Now I will shut up,get down off my soapbox and go have some creative fun.Who cares if it ever gets finished. Not me anymore!

JohnReid

April 20th, 2009, 14:01

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardfliermockup027.jpg

JohnReid

April 26th, 2009, 07:46

Modifying the Wright wing. <hr style="color: rgb(225, 225, 225); background-color: rgb(225, 225, 225);" size="1">   Using the same plans and jig,I am modifying the Wright's wings width and length to look more like the Curtiss Racer.The length is easy as I just stop building at the closest rib position but for the width I used the same jig and repositioned the trailing edge using a blackened brass rod super glued to the rib.After removing the wing from the jig, the old trailing edge portion will be simply cut off.Remember this is my backyard version of the racer so artistic license rules.This airplane is only meant to be a another prop for the storyline,my version of the racer using the knowledge of the day.No rules and regs which suits me just fine.
To give you an idea of just how lax things were in those days ,the story of how the Custiss Pusher became "headless" is a wonderful example.It seems that one day Lincoln Beachey was to give a live flying exhibition before a large ,all ready gathered crowd.Somehow the head assembly got damaged and had to be removed.Not wanting to disappoint the crowd and the promoter by having to return the gate fees,Beachey decided to fly anyway.He found that the airplane actually flew better like this and so was born the "headless" pusher.

JohnReid

April 27th, 2009, 05:41

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierwings002.jpg

JohnReid

April 27th, 2009, 06:34

The world's first "hot" airplane.
This airplane is probably aviation's first attempt to build a "hot" airplane.Clip wing,large engine,large control surfaces and built expressly as a racer to fly faster at low levels.Building a similar airplane to the racer, I really get an idea of how far they were trying to push the envelope all in one foul swoop.This airplane was probably the first to be built with speed in mind.The forerunner of all that was to come later and which still continues to this day.Guys working and re-working their airplanes to get the last ounce of speed out of them.
The backyard flier also represents all the EAA guys to come later.Those who create and build their own backyard or basement fliers to this very day.I know because I was one of them.
Just imagine in those early days of adding and subtracting,modifying and re-modifying and then "taking her up" to see if it works! A day when every pilot was a test pilot.

JohnReid

April 27th, 2009, 07:02

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Curtiss%20pusher%20pics/Curtisspusherpic11-1.jpg

Nick C

April 27th, 2009, 08:59

Toes and spokes...hmmmm, an accident waiting to happen!

Nice work again John, it's great fun watching these projects develop.

srgalahad

April 27th, 2009, 09:03

John, for the brick walls have you tried the model RR sources? "O" scale is 1/48th and there are quite a few options from a quick search.

http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?category=&scale=O&manu=&item=&keywords=brick&words=restrict&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search

Substituting other scales will give you other size options.

btw, you have a PM

Rob

JohnReid

April 29th, 2009, 07:37

Hi Rob! got your PM and have responded.Yes,I am familiar with the RR stuff and have a great hobby store for RR supplies here on the West Island.Unfortunately I build in 1/16th so most of my stuff has to be scratch or modified in some way.Thanks! Cheers. John.:guinness:

JohnReid

April 29th, 2009, 07:39

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierotherexamples.jpg

JohnReid

April 29th, 2009, 08:30

The Impossible Dream.
Of course for every success there were many failures.Probably none of these early fliers ever got off the ground in their backyard machines but their hearts were in the right place.
Where would we be without the dreamers? especially in those early years.

Please note:If anyone has any pictures of other backyard fliers, please let me know where I could find them.

srgalahad

April 29th, 2009, 08:59

John,
Building to that scale does have it's challenges. Another thought about bricks since you live with all those nice tenements for source material... photo-real. Go grab some shots of various brick walls yourself and photoshop them to the right size. Apply the printed image to soft stock and then lightly score the mortar lines for some texture.

Yeah, I know.. more work!:kilroy:

Oh.. and don't forget that ugly mess of electric and telephone lines that would have spiderwebbed the back alley in those days :icon_lol:

I'll be looking forward to seeing the progress.

Rob

JohnReid

April 30th, 2009, 07:06

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Travel%20Air%20D4D/Travelairbc-1.jpg

JohnReid

April 30th, 2009, 16:29

Speaking about dreams,in the 60's this was my impossible dream,to restore a 1929 Travel Air 4000.By 1965 this is where we(my dad and me and our friend Al Pow) were at after a few years of on and off restoration attempts.The rest of this basket case was scrapped and everything from here on in was scratchbuilt.We were lucky in that the basic tubing of the fuselage was in great shape and it gave us a place to start.

JohnReid

April 30th, 2009, 16:31

__________________

JohnReid

May 1st, 2009, 05:44

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierwings005-1.jpg

JohnReid

May 1st, 2009, 06:37

Upper and lower wings woodwork is now finished and temporarily in a jig.Next step will be to prepare the wings for the strut and wire fittings.There are no internal drag and anti-drag wing wires required and no dihedral.The large inter-wing ailerons will have to be built and provided for with fittings etc....
Fortunately during this era the Wright's were involved in a lot of litigation about their wing warping patent ,I say fortunately as it forced others to think beyond this end of the road concept of longitudinal control. However, unfortunately it did have a somewhat negative effect of slowing down aeronautical progress in North America for awhile.

JohnReid

May 1st, 2009, 13:55

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierwings011.jpg

JohnReid

May 2nd, 2009, 06:11

Yes it is 1/16th scale! the clothes pegs are of the miniature variety,not your standard peg.
The distance between the wings has been established and everything squared up.The vertical strut positions were located and coffee stir sticks set in place where the struts will go.The wing tips will be square and the outboard struts will be flush with the last rib.The center section area is five ribs wide while the middle and outboard sections are four each.
I have left myself lots of room to work inside the jig as I anticipate lots of "I wish that I had thought of that before" moments.The jig also affords great protection for the delicate wing structure and probably will be used until just before completion of the model.

JohnReid

May 3rd, 2009, 05:46

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierwings014.jpg

JohnReid

May 3rd, 2009, 06:04

Strut fittings. <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   The strut is shaped to a streamlined cross section and then the ends were rounded.I slipped a short piece of aluminum tubing over the rounded ends.I prepared the wing leading edge with a small piece sticky backed metal. I tried various types and finally came across a sticker from my EAA membership which was just the right thickness and could be cut to the required size.(#1 rule for dioramists,never,ever throw anything out) The copper part was from the Jenny leftovers and the eyebolt behind was obtained from a fishhook with the hook part cut off.The completed fitting will be painted black.

JohnReid

May 4th, 2009, 07:55

Scratchbuilding is a lot of fun but the thing that you have to really be prepared for is repetition.As an example,it is lots of fun to build that first fitting ,trying out this and that, but by the time your finished making 24 of the same thing it can get a little dull.It is not the type of work for those who constantly need to be doing something new.Self imposed quality control is very important, the first example must be as good as the last.
I find that for the creative stuff I have to set aside some uninterrupted time for this.No music,tv or other distractions.Progress can be slow but time really flies while you are in this mode.
For repetitive work,(#2 thru 24 for example) I find just the opposite is true.I kind of go into automatic mode and enjoy the distractions.The key to quality work I think is to put your best work in each and every detail while holding on to your excitement for seeing the finished piece in mind.

JohnReid

May 8th, 2009, 06:13

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Curtisspusherwings001.jpg

JohnReid

May 9th, 2009, 07:00

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Curtisspusherwings009.jpg

max_thehitman

May 9th, 2009, 13:03

Fabulous work so far John. A real classy classic!! :ernae:

Cheers
MAX

JohnReid

May 9th, 2009, 14:24

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Curtisspusherwings020.jpg

harleyman

May 9th, 2009, 16:13

I'm afraid that # 1 would do me in...

Really enjoying seeing this one come along ...Thanks for sharing John

JohnReid

May 10th, 2009, 05:45

Engine bearer braces. <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   These are the engine bearer braces(my term)The engine sits between the braces and it bolted on.There are two extra braces on the rear end of the bearer where the prop is located.
I am building this airplane from pics and only dry fitting the parts for now.I figure that the best way to go about this is to work from center outwards ,to allow as much access as possible to the interior.All the brass tubing will be blackened with chemicals(Blackin-it).I will hit the hobby store this week and see if I can find some bolts small enough to attach the braces to the bearers and the struts,if not I will use pins.http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
I don't have any plans to install an engine (unless someone could tempt me with a spare 1/16th OX5 they may have hanging around.I figure that if there was an engine on my backyard flier it would have been removed for safekeeping until our aviator/builder had returned from the war.I also have to consider just how many of these backyard fliers even got to the engine buying stage.I figure most of these backyard guys were probably pretty good carpenters but for the more technical stuff I wonder if many got beyond the wing building stage?In fact,I have never seen a pic from this era of a finished backyard flier.

max_thehitman

May 11th, 2009, 15:54

I wonder if using an old Model-T ford engine would work? I mean, not putting it on the airplane, but
perhaps on one side ofthe fence... just rusting away, as if to say that this guys is also a car fan, or
he´s actually thinking of fixing up the Ford engine and using it for his flyer later on.
Or perhaps add 3 diferent old engines laying around rusting near the flyer. As if to say that the guy
is collecting parts from diferent engines to create his own machine. :applause:

This masterpiece is coming along just beautifully. I am enjoying this model as much as all the others
you have created so far.
Your TOP-GUN! :ernae:

JohnReid

May 17th, 2009, 05:57

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Curtisspusherwings028.jpg

JohnReid

May 17th, 2009, 06:54

I plan to keep the rigging simple like it was in the early versions of these airplanes.Some modern flying versions do show a different rigging setup with turnbuckles etc...
I have allowed myself a lot of leeway when it comes to my backyard flier as they were all mostly fantasy pieces when they were built.A lot of these builders were full of enthusiasm but had little real knowledge of what they were doing beyond the carpentry stage.I may put all or only some of the rigging up depending on how my enthusiasm holds up.
In this diorama the airplane is important but it is really just another prop in telling the story.The airplane will be weathered and the backyard left a little messy to give it a sense of loss and abandonment.

JohnReid

May 17th, 2009, 07:00

JohnReid

May 23rd, 2009, 08:05

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/CurtisspusherUC002.jpg

warchild

May 23rd, 2009, 08:12

You never fail to just absolutely leave me breathless and dumbfounded. They say that craftsmanship is dieing, and yet, the level of craftsmanship you show in your work, continually leaves me in awe..
Thank you :)

JohnReid

May 26th, 2009, 15:53

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/CurtisspusherUC005.jpg

JohnReid

May 26th, 2009, 16:51

The tire is temporary.I haven't quite made up my mind on the tires.In pictures some look like bicycle tires and others the balloon type.As I plan to have the airplane in the backyard look like it was abandoned for some time ,with tall grass and weeds etc..the wheels may hardly even be seen in the finished diorama anyway.Another possibility is just to make temporary wheels in wood or a combination of a bicycle nosewheel, which is more visible ,and wooden mains.
Beyond the wood building stage I don't want to put too much into the airplane.Why? Wheels,wires,engine etc...if he even had them ,would have been stored away out of the elements and the wooden airframe at least put under tarps.
The family obviously knew about his upcoming arrival home as the "welcome home" banner indicates.They could have removed the tarps as a nice gesture for his homecoming.
I wanted to capture the moment of his arrival,before the family even knew he was there and what may have been going through his head at the time "can it ever be the same?"

JohnReid

May 26th, 2009, 16:52

Thanks warchild!:ernae:

JohnReid

May 27th, 2009, 10:20

You guys may have noticed that my signature contains "Once Upon A Time.......
storyboard dioramas.This is my little tribute to the great film artist Sergio Leone.
His western "Once Upon A Time In The West" is recognized by most as the best westerns ever made and probably one of the top 100 films ever.
I love his attention to detail combined with majestic landscapes.His use of closeups and facial expression to create a mood.His minimalist approach to dialogue,only 15 pages of dialogue in a three and a half hour movie yet he still gets his story across magnificently .His use of music and the fact that a special theme was developed for each of the central characters ,which was played on set while that characters scene was being filmed.
I guess what I am trying to say is that he was a master of telling a grand story in a wonderful new way.
I think he would have loved storyboard dioramas.Thanks for the inspiration Sergio!
Cheers! John.

JohnReid

May 27th, 2009, 14:50

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/CurtisspusherUC006.jpg

JohnReid

May 27th, 2009, 15:38

I decided that our novice builder could not afford to buy the wheels,so I made them up from wood.I have actually seen similar type wood wheels used on early aircraft factory floors, for moving aircraft around before they got their rims and tires.I reduced the length of the fitting that supports the main beams front end just aft of the nosewheel.Working from pics is difficult so you have to be prepared to adjust things as you go along.Because this is my own version of a backyard flier I am building it to my own specs and what looks good to me.
This summer I plan to buy the wood for the base and finalize the design of the diorama, so that I can build up the two modules next winter and hopefully put the whole thing together the following summer.Anyway that is the plan for now.
Judging from past experience however, I usually seriously underestimate the time involved.http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/images/smilies/mellow.gif   __________________
"Once upon a time......." Storyboard dioramas by JohnReid.

JohnReid

May 29th, 2009, 06:01

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/CurtisspusherUC015.jpg

JohnReid

May 29th, 2009, 15:28

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Curtisspusheronefortyeighthonesixte.jpg

JohnReid

June 1st, 2009, 16:28

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/CurtisspusherUC003-1.jpg

JohnReid

June 2nd, 2009, 12:50

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/CurtisspusherUC006-1.jpg

JohnReid

June 2nd, 2009, 14:45

Finally it is temporarily on its gear!The stance looks about right when on a level surface. I will now put it back in the jig and rig the wings.
I have in the spares box an old Ford T radiator and engine.I am thinking about installing an engine but covering it with tarps and tie downs ,so that something will be there that looks like an engine but really can't be clearly seen.The wing tarps will be removed and put off to the side but will be visible.The idea is that his family removed them in anticipation of his arrival.

JohnReid

June 4th, 2009, 15:57

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Yourstruly005.jpg

JohnReid

June 5th, 2009, 06:10

After some experimentation this turnbuckle assembly seems to be the most practical for a number of reasons.First and foremost the hook that attaches to the wing fitting is the easiest to install at this stage.If I had to do it all over again, I would have installed the turnbuckles first for a more authentic look, but then again it is an amateur build so I guess anything goes.(for other designs please see my photobucket "backyard flier "album)
I used plastic coated beading wire for the flying wires and the turnbuckle ends.By threading the wire thru the brass tube and then back on itself you can make a nice little assembly.Once it is weathered with" blacken-it"
it should look just fine at scale distance.

JohnReid

June 7th, 2009, 08:18

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Dad/DadRCAF2-1-2.jpg

yago9

June 7th, 2009, 11:24

Sry John , love your thing but there is another forum for this stuff "modelling and other hoobies" or something..This is an FSX forum if i,m not wrong..Cheers!

http://www.sim-outhouse.com/sohforums/forumdisplay.php?f=52

Nick C

June 7th, 2009, 11:45

Coming along well John, not sure I can wait till the end of next summer for completion mind ;)

JohnReid

June 7th, 2009, 12:01

Thanks Nick! Yeah, I agree but I am not as young as I used to be and get tired after a few hours of work now.Too many of these:birthday2 I guess.

JohnReid

June 10th, 2009, 15:08

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Nieuport28%20dio2/NieuportJune09008-1.jpg

JohnReid

June 10th, 2009, 15:34

Some new pics from diorama#2.

Here is a little study of heads and hands that are the hardest thing to get right whether sculpting or painting.I cheated and let the lighting work for me,there really is only minimal paint here and that is mostly pastels.I did not paint the eyes at all but if you look hard enough you will swear you see some.I think that it is your brain filling in what it thinks should be there. Fun huh!

JohnReid

June 11th, 2009, 06:23

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierwings019.jpg

JohnReid

June 11th, 2009, 07:34

This is the first module that I will work on .It is a 22X30 inch rectangular shape that will be placed on an angle when attached to the base.There will be fencing on three sides with the buildings facade at the back.The overall size of the diorama will be 40"X50" plus the wood on the base sides.The mockup airplane has been scaled down to proper size.All measurements taken from the mockup will be multiplied by 3.3 for 1/16th scale.

Question??? I contribute text and pictures of my work to over thirty different websites and I was wondering ,is there any way that I could do this in one fowl swoop rather than posting individually to each site? I am no computer whiz (as you guys know )but I would really like to cut down on the workload a bit and spend more time actually modeling.
Besides being great for my ego,I really do enjoy contributing to this developing artform on an almost daily basis .From the number of hits I get on the web and to my photobucket,I guess you guys are enjoying it too.
Any ideas other than" quit " would be most appreciated.Cheers! John.

JohnReid

June 12th, 2009, 19:29

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardfliermodule1006.jpg

JohnReid

June 13th, 2009, 05:47

Backyard Flier Module #1 <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   I cut out a 22X30.5 inch piece of plywood,sanded it and painted on two coats of lacquer.Over this, I put on a medium coat of straight white glue,poured some sand on and then shook off the excess.I found a flat surface and clamped and screwed down the plywood to it.This last step is most important to keep things level as the glue dries overnight.
The line that you see is because I did this in two sessions as I wanted to take pics of the full procedure from start to finish.(see my photobucket)The purpose of the sand coat is to give the surface tooth for the landscaping to come.

Thanks to those who offered your suggestions on posting.I think what I will do is only post pics during the week(a pic is worth a thousand words they say)and post a text summery on the weekends.If anyone has a specific question on a pic during the week please feel free to ask.http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

JohnReid

June 14th, 2009, 06:32

Model Photography For Dummies.

I am a dummy.I know nothing about taking pics.I haven't even read the book.Never taken a lesson but I do take pictures,lots of pictures.What is there to lose?
Cheap cameras are everywhere,no film to buy,no fancy set up required.Welcome to modern model photography the way I practice it. The only requirement is a willingness to break the rules and a creative mind.Breaking the rules is easy and a creative mind you guys obviously already have or you wouldn't be making models.Some have no interest in taking pictures at all and that is fine, in fact ,I was one of those until just a few years ago.In order to share with you guys how I build dioramas,I was forced to do it.I already had an expensive film type camera which I hardly ever used(didn't read the book on that one either) It was all too much of a hassle,buying film,nail biting while waiting for my pics at the camera store, only to discover 20 odd dollars later that the camera was on the wrong setting,storing all the photos in expensive binders,and all those mixed up negatives in an ever increasing pile in a box somewhere. This was not for me!
Then came the digital camera,the wonderful digital camera and my problems were solved.Unlimited creative freedom at hardly any expense to my pocketbook or my ego,hit the delete and no one will ever know.I can take as many pics as I want, complete freedom with no regrets!
Just remember to change the batteries and the card once in awhile and off you go into a whole new world of model picture taking.
In future installments on this theme I would like to share with you guys how a dummy can take pretty good pictures too!
Cheers! John.

harleyman

June 14th, 2009, 07:36

I'm with you on cameras John..Never cared much for film, or learning how...

but I like my digital..i ususlly shoot two of everything, as I've learned that one will be lousy.....LOL

JohnReid

June 15th, 2009, 06:24

A camera for dummies.
My choice? Canon power shot A540 Why? it was on sale.
I know absolutely nothing about cameras,so don't even ask.What I do know is that this little camera has all the features I want.On/Off switch,auto and AV settings,4X zoom and 6.0 pixels.It also has lots of other settings about which I know nothing about.The AV setting I learned about from a friend when I wasn't getting much clarity in the background of my pics.
One feature I really like and discovered by accident,is when using the zoom I can push the "take the pic button" halfway down at get an idea of what lighting I need for the finished pic.It also allows me to move around a hand held light for different effects.(more on this later)
It has a flash which I never use and a well used erase button.I would however like to know how I change the DPI settings which I never could figure out ,which causes me to use too much memory, as I seldom blow up my pics to poster size anyway.(Think of DPI like dots on a newspaper picture,the more dots the clearer the picture)
Well that is about it for the camera,all the other buttons and switches I know nothing about and I am actually afraid to use them as I fear that if I play with them I will somehow screw up what seems to be working for me now.Geez...what a dummy! http://209.85.122.85/static/emo/10.png
Next? my fancy accessories.

JohnReid

June 15th, 2009, 14:11

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierbordwalk.jpg

JohnReid

June 16th, 2009, 14:27

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierbordwalk001.jpg

JohnReid

June 17th, 2009, 06:14

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierbordwalk004.jpg

JohnReid

June 19th, 2009, 16:23

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfencing001.jpg

JohnReid

June 20th, 2009, 06:46

Weekend Summery. <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   To cut down on the posting involved, I will post only pictures during the week and a text summery on the weekends.However,I will respond as usual to any specific questions from individuals.Thanks for your patience.

This week was devoted to the boardwalk and backyard fencing.If you look at the original picture that I am using for inspiration,(the 22year old Mr.J.E. Mair's Chicago row house backyard in 1910),you will see next to the buildings facade the boardwalk that runs the full width of the backyard.I have just started the fencing which surrounds each property.The design I am using here is actually from my own backyard and I chose it because of all the lighting possibilities using the shadows through the slats in the boards.(while under construction this will also make a nice backdrop for pictures of my 1/18th scale old car collection)
I used my usual old barn siding method to weather the wood, which I will repeat here for the newcomers to this thread.I use coffee stir sticks of various sizes and doctors tongue depressors, which I trim and cut to length.Then take a mix of 75% nimbus gray-25% raw umber acrylic paint and add lots of water to the consistency of milk and brush it on.Let dry and repeat as many times as necessary to get the coverage that looks good to you.(I use Jo Sonja acrylic paint almost exclusively as it dries flat)Personally I like the wood grain to show through as it looks more realistic.When dry,take a pin and make a pattern of holes in the wood to represent nails.Twist the head of an HB graphite pencil into each hole and then and then add a final watery coat.This swells the pin holes back level with the surface .When dry,you can add a tiny drop of watery burnt sienna to each nail for a rusty look.(Later you can add burnt sienna chalk pastels to intensify the rusty look if required)Now take an old toothbrush and some very watery raw umber and flick on a very fine spray of crude.After you have finished handling the boards and the structure is built ,you can come back with your siennas,browns grays,and black chalk pastels and play with it until you are satisfied.Pastels can be used to great effect when creating shadows.Just remember to be subtle in your approach to weathering,if in doubt use less not more!

JohnReid

June 20th, 2009, 14:59

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfencingcont001.jpg

Tim-HH

June 20th, 2009, 15:04

Very impressive, as usual, John!! :applause:

Greetings
Tim

JohnReid

June 22nd, 2009, 16:20

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfencingcont008.jpg

JohnReid

June 23rd, 2009, 06:38

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfencingcont004.jpg

JohnReid

June 24th, 2009, 05:44

Now that my 4th aircraft diorama is underway my mind has been wandering as to what will be next.I decided on a Bleriot XI for the airplane,the diorama part is still unknown,even to me!

Amati Bleriot XI
First look inside the box!
What a disappointment,this is not a museum quality model,not by my standards anyway.It is probably worth about what I paid for it ,about a quarter of what it originally went for a few years ago.I got mine as a closeout special from Model Airways.They will not be re-stocking them in the future,now I think I know why.
This gives the term "museum quality "a bad name.My idea of museum quality would be a 1/10 scale model of the real thing,period.This is not even close.
I still plan to build it using what I can of the stuff provided but it will only be a starting point.The engine ,the spoked wheels and metal fittings look OK at first glance but only time will tell.Just about everything in wood seems to be a figment of someones imagination.I haven't yet checked the overall measurements for accuracy but the building methodology is all wrong.The only way those wings would look OK is fabric covered,which I would recommend doing as an out of the box build.The fabric would as least cover up a multitude of sins.There just is no excuse for this in 1/10th scale.More on all this later.
Here is my plan.I will use only the parts that I find acceptable or that can be modified to be accurate.I will use this as a starting point like I did with all my other structural type builds.(you gotta start somewhere)
As I mentioned before I am a member of the Canadian Aviation Heritage Center which is only about ten minutes down the road from me and they have a 1:1 scale Bleriot XI now nearing completion.This aircraft will be flown in 2011 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the first Canadian air show and flight over a Canadian city,Montreal.
Because it is actually to be flown the MOT has forced upon them some more modern modifications for safety sake.It will therefore be my task to find which is original and which has been modified.I want to build the original version. to be cont........
For all you military airplane fans out there,yes this was a military airplane.

JohnReid

June 25th, 2009, 07:34

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfencingcont011.jpg

JohnReid

June 26th, 2009, 08:50

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfencingcont017.jpg

harleyman

June 26th, 2009, 09:36

Alright John...

I'm checkin out the old 45 flathead....... very nice...! :icon29:

JohnReid

June 27th, 2009, 04:33

Weekend Summery. <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   This week was all about making and weathering fencing.It can be a long and repetitive process but you can make it less so by being a little creative and making each section just a little different.
The sections are made to be removable until final assembly .I build each panel as it would be done in full scale and do not use jigs.This way it allows for a build which is more like the real thing,mistakes and all.Posts are installed first ,followed by cross members and then the vertical boards.Weathering is the same method as I used for the barn siding in my other dioramas.I figure that most fences in middle class neighborhoods in those days would be left to age naturally, due to the cost of paint.
In the original picture the fencing looks to be about 4feet internally and the outer perimeter about 6 feet or higher.(My mock shows all the fencing at 4feet.)I decided to go with the picture and use the higher perimeter fencing.The only problem that I can see now would be to make the whole thing look a little walled off from the viewers perspective.If need be the height could be reduced in he future.

JohnReid

July 2nd, 2009, 04:10

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Classic%20Cars/Classiccarandfences007.jpg

JohnReid

July 2nd, 2009, 04:48

Yeah,I know it is not WW1 but all by old Ford T's are in the dioramas.Anyway this gives you an idea of how easy it is to do a vignette composition.I used my own backyard as a backdrop, put in a 1/18th scale classic car along my recently built fence,used one of the hangar doors not yet installed and voila there you have it.Later of course this area will be covered in grass and other vegetation.The car could also be slightly weathered, especially around the wheel areas after a drive to the airport, or I could put in a pail and some soap indicating that it had just been washed.

JohnReid

July 3rd, 2009, 15:41

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfenceing002.jpg

JohnReid

July 3rd, 2009, 16:08

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfenceing005.jpg

JohnReid

July 5th, 2009, 05:13

Weekend Summary <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   Still on the fencing! I have decided to rearrange things a bit.The high fencing will extend along only one side of the backyard that faces the street.The front fencing will be the same height as the fencing that separates the backyards, as it faces the lane way out back and not the public street.I felt that using the high fencing all the way around would give the diorama a walled off look which is not very welcoming for the viewer.The high wall is located at the highest elevation of all the backyards, so I think it actually adds to the stepped down look when viewing the diorama from right to left.
The exact position of the flier I am still debating.The original reference pic shows it square to the fence with the nose pointed toward the buildings facade.Because the backyards are not square to the base but at an angle,I may still be OK with this.
How to get the finished airplane out of the backyard ? Well he wouldn't be the first EAA type to tear down a fence to remove his beloved airplane.(I have heard of some who even removed basement walls)

JohnReid

July 8th, 2009, 05:36

I am tired of the fencing business for now and am ready for something new.Like with most things new it can be a little intimidating at first but I feel that I have some excellent reference material to work with so I am anxious to get started.
This will be my first attempt at a building other than a barn or old hangar.It will only be the rear facade but it will be my first go at brickwork,stone etc..A modeling bud ,Andi has been most helpful to me in getting started with reference material and a building methodology using foam board and paper.You will be amazed at what can be done with paper ,I know I sure was.Well here goes.......

JohnReid

July 8th, 2009, 06:19

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Brickworkhowto21.jpg
This and the following pics courtesy of Andi:mixedsmi:

JohnReid

July 8th, 2009, 06:23

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Brickworkhowto2.jpg

JohnReid

July 8th, 2009, 06:29

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/BackyardFlierdrawing002.jpg
My rough drawing.

JohnReid

July 8th, 2009, 06:36

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardfliermockup021.jpg
My final 1/48th scale mockup.

JohnReid

July 8th, 2009, 06:46

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardfliermockup023.jpg
First up will be to build the R/H facade in 1/16th scale.:jump:

JohnReid

July 12th, 2009, 05:43

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/AlbatrosDv%20dio1/Albcrashedinbackyard004.jpg

JohnReid

July 12th, 2009, 06:01

More fun with vignettes <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   While I am working on the early stages of building the facade,I thought that I would put up a few pics of the crashed Albatros sitting in the backyard of the backyard flier diorama.(lots more on my photobucket,look for the Albatros album.)When the backyard is finished with all the landscaping in place,I will submit better pics without clothes lines , bird feeders,porch railings and sun canopies etc...http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif Eventually I will be taking a lot of pics of my 1/18th scale old car collection using this backyard, before shipping it off to the museum.
  __________________
"Once upon a time......." Storyboard dioramas by JohnReid.
My photobucket:
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

harleyman

July 12th, 2009, 17:09

I just can't believe how quickly you move on a project..It has come so far already john..It really shows just what a passion you have for this ...

Was that a full size mock up I saw??? (sorry, short on time and didn't read everything if you said so already)

JohnReid

July 13th, 2009, 09:37

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade004.jpg

JohnReid

July 13th, 2009, 09:39

JohnReid

July 13th, 2009, 09:49

Facade #1 R/H yard area. <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   This is the height of a 2 story row house.It looks a little out of proportion right now but when the L/H yard and roof is added,things will look more balanced.
I kind of like the airplane placed at an angle in the yard for now but I won't make the final decision until much later in the build.

JohnReid

July 13th, 2009, 15:19

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade006.jpg

harleyman

July 13th, 2009, 17:18

The thought behind your work is simply amazing..All the details.so many details just to begin...

I am in awe of this process..:applause:

JohnReid

July 14th, 2009, 09:59

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade015.jpg

JohnReid

July 15th, 2009, 13:55

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade017.jpg

harleyman

July 16th, 2009, 04:12

John..

Are you also into HO guage train layouts?

JohnReid

July 16th, 2009, 05:48

No,but I like them and even contribute to a RR website.I build in 1/16th because the museum where they will end up like the larger scales.

JohnReid

July 17th, 2009, 15:05

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade031.jpg

JohnReid

July 18th, 2009, 04:46

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade032.jpg

JohnReid

July 18th, 2009, 08:52

When the measurements are done it is time to start cutting in with the Xacto knife.I started with what I call the dining room window which is the largest on the back facade.
Keeping your xacto (new blade,change often) 90 degs to the surface cut into the foam board.I do this freehand and make a couple of passes until it is cut all the way through.At this stage I don't try to be too exact as the foamboard is soft and easily damaged.Put another piece of foam board behind the cutout and trace the perimeter of the window.Cut this piece out as well and line it up and glue it to the back creating a double thickness.This will allow for a secure surface for our window frame pieces and add a more realistic look to the thickness of the wall.When dry start fitting your frame pieces,do not glue for now but make a tight fit.I cut mine slightly oversize and fit and sand,fit and sand until they fit snugly .Get out a small square and adjust the foamboard until the frames fit 90deg to each other.
It is time consuming to do but I thank my lucky stars that I am only doing a plain outdoor facade and not your typical Victorian moldings that you would find on the inside.

JohnReid

July 18th, 2009, 12:37

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade034.jpg

JohnReid

July 18th, 2009, 12:42

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade035.jpg

JohnReid

July 19th, 2009, 05:25

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade033.jpg

JohnReid

July 19th, 2009, 05:33

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade038.jpg

JohnReid

July 19th, 2009, 15:08

My Victorian Row House.

After a lot of research the following measurements seem to be consistent with a typical North American Victorian row house.From the lower level floor to the upper level ceiling is about 21 feet 6 inches.
The top of the piece of cardboard at the bottom of the foam board represents the top of the exterior boardwalk.There are two rows of blocks to the top of the foundation,a 2" cap strip and 2"X10" joists to the lower level floor.From floor to window sill is 30"and from floor to ceiling is 10feet.I have allowed 18" between the ceiling to the top of the upper floor level for joists,plaster ceiling, sub-floor and floor.Then another 30" to the upper window sill and again 10 feet to the ceiling.(Victorian ceilings were high)
The upper rooms are 12 feet in width to their center lines ,the actual room size would be less due to studs,walls etc...The lower levels widths are 12 feet for the dining room and about 10 for the kitchen ,the rest is the 30" wide door and storage area,the overall width is about 30 feet.Above the door is the bathroom so that the run of the plumbing is consistent with the kitchen area.
The doors and windows are tall and narrow to allow for indoor/outdoor air circulation.
The external roof line has yet to be established but it is usually a little above the upper window.
Please advise me if you guys notice anything obviously wrong with the measurements.

JohnReid

July 20th, 2009, 15:32

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade041-1.jpg

JohnReid

July 20th, 2009, 15:34

This is a figure standing on the floor in an upstairs bedroom window.   __________________

JohnReid

July 22nd, 2009, 13:44

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade043.jpg

JohnReid

July 22nd, 2009, 13:56

This is boring stuff ,no doubt about it.It is one of those jobs that separates the men from the boys (or should I say wackos from the normals.)http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/images/smilies/wacko.gif

JohnReid

July 27th, 2009, 07:02

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Rowhouseenglishbrickwork.jpg

JohnReid

July 27th, 2009, 07:20

I love this pic!( I know only a modeler could get excited about bricks) Anyway,it gives you a great palette of brick colors to work with and the wall itself is so very interesting.
I can see an artist getting lost forever in this detail , being able to practice every technique in the book.It will surely be a case of knowing when to stop.By comparison modern brick walls are so very boring.
I don't yet have any idea of how to achieve that rough cement grout work look but I am working on it.I think my challenge will be to restrain myself and not to make my wall too old looking.
I love the way Andi builds a history into his brick walls but I wonder if that would be appropriate here.The row houses in my reference picture look fairly new in 1913 and the residents fairly well off ,judging by the way the lady with the dog is dressed and the fact that our early EAA type could even afford all the materials to build his airplane.
I can hardly wait to start the painting of this piece .It is as close to 2D picture painting that a 3D guy can get....

JohnReid

July 28th, 2009, 06:06

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade048-1.jpg

Snuffy

July 28th, 2009, 06:17

Good Job John ... I envy you the time, patience, and talent. :ernae:

jmig

July 28th, 2009, 07:54

Good Job John ... I envy you the time, patience, and talent. :ernae:

Me too! WOW

JohnReid

July 29th, 2009, 06:35

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade052.jpg

JohnReid

July 29th, 2009, 06:49

Working out the color scheme.
The window frame will be my favorite dark green color.(see my photobucket for an example)I have put on a light green base coat over the raw wood and over that the darker green.When I get to the weathering I will lightly sand the surface to get a wear and tear effect,two tone green and in places raw wood, which then could be washed a light gray.
I am looking for a neutral shade for the bricks and light beige,the first half brick from the top in the pic,seems to look good.There has been one watery coat applied at this stage.The full brick above has two watery coats.I like to start with the light shades and work to randomly darker them when using washes.The edges of the brick have been painted now so that any overlap of colors will be the green trim and not the brick.
This watercolor paper is great to work with as it does not swell when water is applied thus preserving the texture of the brick.

JohnReid

July 29th, 2009, 07:12

It has occurred to me that maybe I am going down the wrong path here.I am basically trying to represent what was a fairly new building in 1913.I look around my neighborhood at the brick structures after 20-30 or even 50 years and the bricks still look almost new.Maybe it would be a mistake to radically age my brick wall or try to build too much history into it.I love Andi's wonderful work but it may not be appropriate as as an example for which was a fairly new structure in 1913.
When to stop? What to leave in and what to leave out?

harleyman

July 29th, 2009, 16:31

I don't know John..

Would that not be from proper maintance ? Like cleaning and pointing the brick walls when they needed it?

What if they were in a not so affiluent neighborhood ? Men off to war?

I think the textures could go any way !

I like weathered myself...

Just a thought ...

JohnReid

July 30th, 2009, 07:27

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade054.jpg

JohnReid

July 30th, 2009, 07:44

Man I wish I had a camera lens that didn't create so much distortion.Anyway,here is where I am so far.The upper right bricks above the sill are as dark as I plan to go.The lower right is a little lighter and to the left of that lighter still.I have used JoSonja acrylic gouache paint.It is their Gold Oxide straight out of the tube, mixed only with plain tap water to a consistency of 5% milk.You could thin it out to about 2% but that is not necessary here as my base color is quite dark.The key here is to not get too dark too quickly,it is better to err on the side of leaving it too light and then darken individual bricks to the shade you prefer.(like the bricks you see on the left in the pic)You want contrast between individual bricks.I have always worked from light to dark to take advantage of the transparency factor afforded by gouache acrylics.It can be a little time consuming painting individual bricks darker but it saves trying to lighten them later.
When putting on your first coat be sure to paint the white brick edges that have not been already colored with a small round brush.Don't worry about getting it on the foam board as it has a surface that does not readily absorbed the paint, which is a real advantage here.(saves you having to grout the spaces between the brick) Any space that remains too white can be dealt with by applying a second watery coat.
The reason that I do the spaces now is if your do it later the edges may turn out too dark and spoil your work.
Pick a shade of color that you like as your base coat (which will end up being the lightest value on the wall)and randomly darken the rest until you are happy.Don't go too dark right away as acrylics will darken naturally as they dry,much like house paint.In fact I will let mine dry over night and do the finishing touches the following day.
If you plan to do dry brushing now would be the time to do so,I haven't yet decided myself. I may just weather them by flicking on some crud using my toothbrush technique and then use pastels to finish.So far I am happy with the result,I think that it looks like a 20-30 year old wall.

JohnReid

July 31st, 2009, 04:30

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade056.jpg

JohnReid

July 31st, 2009, 05:39

The grey stone blocks where given the 5% milk treatment using JoSonja gouache acrylic.I used their Nimbus Grey mixed with a touch of Raw Umber and water.I darkened down the seams using the same mix and a small round brush.Try not to get too much on the face of the stone.
I really like this textured watercolor paper when using thin coats ,as it almost eliminates the need for dry brushing.Remember however one heavy coat and your in trouble.Not all is lost however ,as you can still dry brush the texture back if need be ,using a lighter tint of the same color.This is an example of the great versatility of acrylics.
The grey stones still need a little pastel shading and some crud along the bottom.

I would suggest to those who don't want to go to all this effort to make a brick wall ,if you think it looks good enough for your purposes especially in the smaller scales,when I am finished you could make a copy of the wall and then use photobucket to play with the colors and adjust it to any scale you want.Have fun!

Note: if you want a great tutorial on making scratchbuilt cars or aircraft in brass see my modeling bud Ken Foran's thread over on SMC.He is the best!

http://www.scalemotorcars.com (http://www.scalemotorcars.com/)
Look under Large Scale Cars in the Forum.

Snuffy

July 31st, 2009, 05:44

Looking good John .... :ernae:

JohnReid

August 2nd, 2009, 12:42

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade060.jpg

JohnReid

August 3rd, 2009, 06:56

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Rowhousewindow-1.jpg

JohnReid

August 4th, 2009, 06:51

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade061.jpg

JohnReid

August 9th, 2009, 07:23

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade068.jpg

JohnReid

August 9th, 2009, 08:55

How easy is it to screw up? Let me count the ways.
I think our brick layer came back to work after a liquid lunch and somehow screwed up the brickwork.I only noticed the following after taking the pics.The two rows of dark colored bricks on the R/H side of the dining room window,are not level with the left.
The easiest fix would be to make the whole thing three rows instead of two.The other would be to lighten the dark bricks with acrylics but that could lead to problems.Maybe I will try something with pastels.
The window sills will be only temporarily installed for two reasons,I may in future want to lay the facade flat on its face and two they are too vulnerable to being broken off.

harleyman

August 9th, 2009, 08:55

Almost 1/2 way up the wall......

A ways to go.....:monkies:

JohnReid

August 9th, 2009, 09:09

Almost 1/2 way up the wall......

A ways to go.....:monkies:
I know,it is wild how much time that you can spend doing this stuff!:isadizzy:

Snuffy

August 9th, 2009, 11:41

John, not to be too overly critical, but I've noticed a problem with your foundation brick as well ... Never ever let a vertical joint go more than one course of brick at a time ... block n brick always overlayed and straddled the course below it ....

Vertical joints more than one course high tend to weaking the wall and would cause failure.

:wavey:

JohnReid

August 9th, 2009, 12:46

JohnReid

August 10th, 2009, 06:47

This will make a great backdrop for taking pics.I am planning to do a series of "Public Enemies" vignettes using 1/18th scale cars.I am afraid that the museum won't be getting this diorama for awhile. http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
It has taken me a month to build half a wall and am only about 1/5th of the way along.I am hoping that now that the design part is mostly finished things will speed up a bit, however there now will be the boredom factor to contend with now that most of the creative bricklaying stuff is behind me.
Snuffy pointed out to me that the blocks/greystones at the foundation are not placed properly.I should have known better, that you never line the vertical seams up one on top of the other, as this only creates a weakness in the foundation.A quick fix would be to re-do the foundation blocks by gluing new block faces over the old ones, which would mean the blocks would not be quite flush with the brick wall.I think that some foundations may have been like this anyway.I will take a look around and see what is out there.I could try hiding it with vegetation etc..but the problem is I know its there.

JohnReid

August 11th, 2009, 05:52

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade085.jpg

JohnReid

August 11th, 2009, 06:18

<hr style="color: rgb(225, 225, 225); background-color: rgb(225, 225, 225);" size="1">   Now that looks better!I simply glued new faces over the blocks.In fact I think that they look better now as the original blocks were too dark and uniform in color.The irregular look of the blocks along the bottom will be hidden behind the boardwalk.
Just before I finally install the facade I will get the old pastels out and create a few shadows etc..
For the next row house I will use a different colors for the brick as well as door and window trim, which will help to make the facades more interesting.I will do the same for the third row house even though only about a 1/4 of it will actually be seen.
A lot can be done later to breakup any uniformity in the backyards using small additions ,outbuildings and vegetation.

Snuffy

August 11th, 2009, 07:13

... It has taken me a month to build half a wall and am only about 1/5th of the way along. ...

Boy if that were a real construction job you'd be canned by the super ... :bump:

Other than that ... I'll tell ya what my father always says about a job that appears out of flush or alignment ...

"20,000 feet up in an airplane ... they'll never see it."

Looks good!

JohnReid

August 11th, 2009, 07:19

I know that some of you guys are asking yourself why does this guy keep on keeping on when he gets so little response to his work?
Is it the scale? or is the subject matter too far out of the mainstream? lack of interest? etc...
Well I know that it is none of these.How? By the number of hits I get, not only on the websites but on my photobucket and my photobucket albums.I average 150,000 hits a month on my photobucket and 1,000 album visits as well.
For some reason things really took off around last March and I still really don't know why.
The sites that I contribute to are all over the map,RR,car,airplane,figure,ship,diorama, armor and diecast.
I also understand that what the hell else can you say after making the same comments over and over(usually positive).I also know because of my workload I can't participate much on each of the individual websites but as I said in the beginning my main interest here is in promoting dioramas of all genres.Call it a labor of love I guess.
A special thanks to all those who have taken the time to express their opinions and comments to me directly, especially those offering their constructive criticism.
So now it is back to work! Cheers! John.

Nick C

August 11th, 2009, 07:22

Some, like me, perhaps take a sneaky view wile at work John, but don't have the time to log in and reply. However, rest assured that I certainly enjoy your updates and I am subscribed to this thread. Because of this, I've also become a member of two other forums you post updates in because of the fascinating models that are being built.

So as I have a spare second (at work), thanks again and please don't stop posting your updates.

2Low

August 11th, 2009, 07:34

It's funny you should say that as, as I looked at your last post with your repairs I was about to type a responce but it would have been just the usual "nice work" kind of thing so I didn't. This is kind of a work log and was afraid of cluttering it up needlessly with a short response you've seen many times already.

I use to build a lot of model kits and would scratch build many parts for myself and that was a lot of work but what you do is an entirely different level. I would make simple little dioramas to "frame" the model.

This thread has me thinking of my airbrush and that big chest of unbuilt models I have in the basement. Do I want to open that can of worms again? Hmmm, maybe but for now FSX takes up a lot of my hobby time. We'll see.

I think your post and photobucket hit count more accurately reflects the interest in your work than the amount of replies in this thread. I know I check every update.

It looks great so far and I eagerly await more progress.

Rob

edit- Nick mentions other forums, could I be let in on their names please?

JohnReid

August 12th, 2009, 06:36

One of the great by-products of doing art is how it makes you much more aware of your surroundings.I mean what is more mundane than a brick wall?
Really boring stuff right? I know that I never gave it much attention before actually building one.Now I find myself looking at the colors,the designs while driving down the road ,watching TV etc..Not only that but many old brick walls have a history if you look closely enough.Additions and subtractions made over the years.The builder never really being able to match the weathered color of the old brick.Windows and doors walled up which makes you wonder why?Additions of extra stories to a building,weathering,old signs for now non-existent products etc..etc.. There is a lot of our history tied up in brick walls for those who care to read it.
A lot of what we do as artists/craftsmen is "paying attention" to what has always been there.Most of us never really look at a flower until we come to paint it or an airplane until we come to build it or even a human face until we draw or carve it.

JohnReid

August 17th, 2009, 06:18

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardfliermairs2.jpg

JohnReid

August 17th, 2009, 07:47

Many thanks to Kees(Varese2002) of The Aerodrome forum for the above picture ,which up until now I never knew existed.
It is a glass negative from the Chicago Daily News and it shows Mr J.E. Mair in his backyard at 3106 W Fullerton Ave Chicago in 1910.There is no record that it ever flew.Evidently the backyard is still there on Google maps.
Of course like so many other things that have happened to me while building these dioramas, this info has come to me just when I needed it.(strange but true)
My thoughts have recently been turning to the next step, the landscaping of the backyards.I see from the pic that the backyard is just like I thought it would be ,lots of mud in front and overgrown vegetation in the back.(Who the hell has got the time to worry about things like that when there are much more important things to be done?) Sound familiar?
I also noticed a smaller version of a boardwalk along the L/H fence line, which if I install it will have to run along the opposite fence due to the positioning of my figure in the composition.
Mr Mair and I have something in common, his backyard looks like my workshop/studio.Note the angle measuring device laying on the boardwalk's bottom left in the pic, and what looks like a yardstick on the ground under the wing.
Funny how he just had to install the pilots seat and control wheel even if it now gets in the way.Mr Mair must have sat behind that wheel many times during this build with wonderful dreams of flight running though his head.
Fifty years later and we were headed for the moon.Thanks Mr Mair.

JohnReid

August 17th, 2009, 07:49

2Low

August 17th, 2009, 08:00

You are welcome John. I was wondering if that photo was your inspiration but I see it was not.

Nick mentioned that he joined 2 forums to follow your posts and that they had other wonderfull modelling going on so I was wondering where. If you could recomend one or two that would be great. I prefer aviation modelling but do like automotive, millitary, and trains as well.

That photo makes you want to root for him and hope he gets it off the ground. There may be no record of it but as they say "Reality is a word in the English language that should always be used in quotes" and in my reality he did fly it.

JohnReid

August 17th, 2009, 08:16

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Inpursuitofhisdream.jpg
This was it,taken the same day from a different angle.

JohnReid

August 17th, 2009, 08:38

I really like www.theaerodrome.com for airplanes of my era and www.scalemotorcars.com for scratchbuilding.

2Low

August 17th, 2009, 08:55

I'll check them out, thanks.

Oops I went back to the start of this thread and see now that Mr. Mair was the inspiration just a different photo. My brain's not what it used to be and it wasn't much then :)

I'm still going with my "reality" and he flew it ;)

JohnReid

August 18th, 2009, 05:57

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardfliermairs3.jpg

JohnReid

August 18th, 2009, 07:37

Kees found me a third pic to go along with the other two.Mr. Mair is on the left in this pic the other man is unknown.
There is a lot of good info in this pic besides what our builder looks like.The front building facades confirm this to be a fairly well off neighborhood.I can't see a roof on the building but this could be a separate apartment building ,different from the row houses that I am building.
Some of the airplanes structure is shown but on first impression it looks like what you might expect ,a very primitive build.This has been identified as a copy of the Wright Flier but I beg to differ for many reasons.First and foremost is the square wingtips more reminiscent of a Curtiss design. I still believe that this was a true backyard flier of Mr Mair's own design, with a little Wright and Curtiss thrown in.(more on this later)
From the picture Mr. Mair looks like a young ,intense,intelligent man(look at the eyes)who got caught up in the excitement for aviation at the time.An early EAA'er for sure.
If you look closely above the upper wing you will see what looks like a porch or veranda probably from where the first two pictures were taken.
Note Miss Nosy Parker peering from behind the curtains,I guess there is one in every neighborhood.

JohnReid

August 20th, 2009, 08:07

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardfliermairs5.jpg

JohnReid

August 20th, 2009, 08:25

This is the pic that first inspired me to do a backyard flier.Somebody identified it as a Wright brothers copy, which is wrong for a number of reasons.Besides that, what is really interesting is that the builder looks like he was experimenting with some type of design for longitudinal control, other than wing warping ,a patent at the time that was jealously guarded by the Wrights.If you look carefully at the pic you will see a hinged flap sort of design outboard near the wings leading edge.He has cut the ribs at the spars and hinged it to the trailing edge of the front spar on both upper and lower wings.There also seems to be the beginning of some sort of rigging for their control.If this is what I think it is Mr Mair was surely involved with some very early innovative and creative aeronautical engineering.
I love this pic as it tells so much about the human creative spirit.Don't forget this is 1910 when many looked upon aviation as a oddity and a foolish thing to pursue.I can only speculate what his family and neighbors might have thought.

JohnReid

August 23rd, 2009, 08:08

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/RowhouseengfromGazette003.jpg

JohnReid

August 23rd, 2009, 08:30

I was going to use 3 different colored bricks as seen in this pic, but I am afraid that those long vertical lines between brick wall separations may distract the viewers eye away from the airplane to the wall.
When I first look at this pic I see the policemen,then the brick wall and then the cars.In my diorama.I am looking to reverse this a bit and put less emphasis on the building and more on the airplane.The figure because of its position in the diorama would not be the first thing the viewer would notice but would probably be replaced by the "welcome home" sign.
I know that I seem to be going overboard with all this but it really is very important to the success of diorama.The connections to the storyboard part will come after the initial visual impact.The solitary figure,the sign,the weathered flier,the different backyards etc..will come later into the viewers imagination. (I hope)

2Low

August 23rd, 2009, 11:27

John thanks for sharing you thought process on this. We the general public get to see finished works and never really know about all the decisions made to achieve what we see.

As far as going overboard, no I don't see that. The attention to detail, what to put in, what to leave out, the juxtaposition of this to that, how bold or subtle to make any feature, and more all come together to differentiate the museum worthy from the games room worthy. Your work is in the former category and I'm really enjoying reading the thought process that makes it so.

Rob

JohnReid

August 24th, 2009, 05:37

I am so glad to hear that you enjoy the process as much as the finished product. Cheers! John.:ernae:

JohnReid

August 24th, 2009, 06:47

More what to leave in and what to leave out decisions that I soon will have to make is regarding the flier itself.As you guys who have been following this thread already know,my storyline is a lot different than what is depicted in the original pic.
As it is already it would make a very nice story about an early EAA'er building a flier.The very busy Mr. Mair working intently on his flier pretty much unaware of all the things going on around him. The kids more fascinated by the lady with the dog (I think but hard to see) ,the boys sitting on the fence either too shy to approach because of the girls(this is 1910 remember) or maybe Mr Mair doesn't want them around his airplane.The washing on the line etc..etc leads me to believe that the photographer really knew what he was doing when he created this composition.Mr. Mair himself was probably staged but the rest is probably spontaneous.A wonderful "slice of life" story in itself.
I have however decided to cut down on the complexity of the story .I want to make it simpler but with more emotion.My story revolves around a single individual and his relationship with his love for aviation.It is a story of the loss of innocence both of the individual and aviation itself.What seemed like such a wonderful,innocent thing to do in the beginning now turned out to be just another instrument of war.Looking at his flier he is probably wondering "can I bring myself to complete it" knowing now what I know to be true?
The feeling among the general population after all the killing in WW1 was not very positive about machines of war,airplanes included.Most fathers would not encourage their sons to become pilots.Most pilots couldn't even find jobs other than exhibition pilots or barnstormers.So it was the mood of the times that I want to capture in my diorama.I am not sure that everyone will get it but I bet a pretty high percentage of servicemen will.Those who don't will still have something interesting to look at.

JohnReid

August 24th, 2009, 07:46

A fellow modeler has just informed me that these buildings on Fullerton St in Chicago still exist,in fact he lived not too far away on the same street in the 1970's.
Art is truly a living thing and does provide us with a little comfort knowing that it does really have a life of it's own, beyond the lifespan of the individual artist.
I wish I knew the photographers name ,in his day he would be at the top of his game which really comes through to me in the pics.In fact ,that is what first caught my "artist's eye" ,the creative angle from which the pic was taken.Rather than just the usual airplane pic he captured a story which lives on to this day.100 years ago an artist/photographer takes a pic and all these years later an artist/modeler builds on the foundation of his work.Maybe a 100 years from now, using a medium that we can't even imagine today ,another artist will be influenced and expand on our work.And so it goes.........

JohnReid

August 25th, 2009, 05:59

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade092.jpg

2Low

August 25th, 2009, 06:39

...all these years later an artist/modeler builds on the foundation of his work.Maybe a 100 years from now, using a medium that we can't even imagine today ,another artist will be influenced and expand on our work.And so it goes.........

I see a museum with a hologram room set up where you walk in and you are in Mr.Mair's back yard. Even less in the future I can picture someone doing this as a mini-3D scenery for FSX.

You sure get a guy thinking sir.

JohnReid

August 25th, 2009, 15:25

Bricks,bricks and more bricks! <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   Last night as I was painting the sun was setting at a low angle and I decided to take a few shots.The brick face looks very rough from this angle and magnification but at scale distance under normal lighting conditions it is fine.The cement grouting is hidden in the shadows so very little shows in this pic.I now have to repeat the same thing again ,in mirror image, for the other row house and then another quarter or so for the partial house.A lot more bricks to go I'm afraid but it will be worth the time and effort in the end.At least that it the story I keep repeating to myself.

JohnReid

August 27th, 2009, 14:33

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade100-1.jpg

JohnReid

August 27th, 2009, 15:23

After studying the 1/48 scale mock up I decided to stay with the multi-level idea after all.I think that it is visually more appealing and I like the fact that the flier's backyard is on the highest level as this tends to put more focus on the airplane and main storyline.
It may complicate the landscaping of the backyards but I will deal with that a little further down the road.In the above pic I haven't yet cut the roofline so it looks a little odd ,but it too will show a slight drop just like the foundation line.The joint between each row house will be covered by the evestrough's downspout.The brick will be the same color but the trim will be French Blue.All those windows need to be built and installed.I am planning to put lighting and curtains behind the windows with maybe a half concealed ,shadowy, nosy neighbor looking out upon the scene.This will be down in such a way as not to draw the attention of the viewer except as an afterthought.

Snuffy

August 28th, 2009, 03:13

You know John ... I gotta be just a little anal here ... :icon_lol:

While you got all the bricks a nice pretty brick red ... I am wondering if you're going to take the time to paint the mortar joints a light grey/gray color ... as the mortar wasn't dyed to match the brick.

Many times, the mortar joints came flush to the face of the brick too ...

Just had to ask ... :ernae:

Looking good!

JohnReid

August 28th, 2009, 06:23

Hi Ted! I plan to experiment using pastels.The cement on my bricks would be fairly new at this time and slightly recessed. I should think that little surface re-grouting would be necessary at this point.
When viewed in person,at scale distance ,with proper lighting it looks a lot better than in pics.A lot of care is required here ,not to get things too obvious,subtlety is the key.:ernae:

JohnReid

August 28th, 2009, 06:40

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade103.jpg

JohnReid

August 29th, 2009, 07:04

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade106.jpg

JohnReid

August 29th, 2009, 07:35

With a small,soft,cheap brush and gray pastels I have worked a little cement color into some of the spaces between the bricks.The abrasive nature of the bricks are really hard on brushes so be aware.
Any unnecessary gray color on the face of the bricks can later be removed using brick colored pastels.

When putting it all together I will do a final weathering of the facade using my old toothbrush and thin acrylic paint spray technique.

JohnReid

August 31st, 2009, 08:10

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade108.jpg

JohnReid

September 1st, 2009, 10:53

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/CAHC/Bleriot%20model%20at%20CAHC/Backyardflierfenceing112.jpg

JohnReid

September 1st, 2009, 11:08

For those who maybe interested: <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   I took the rare opportunity to take some really closeup pics of a static display Bleriot XI that usually is hanging from the ceiling at the Canadian Aviation Heritage Center at Montreal.They are changing the prop for a more authentic one of the period. One wing has been removed for convenience.
These are very good reference pics for those wishing to scratchbuild a static or a flying model of this famous airplane.Please note that these pics are for your reference only and may differ significantly from the real airplane.http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
See my photobucket album CAHC, then click on Bleriot model at CAHC in the sub albums.

JohnReid

September 7th, 2009, 17:41

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade110.jpg

JohnReid

September 8th, 2009, 14:32

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade109.jpg

JohnReid

September 12th, 2009, 07:45

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade111.jpg

JohnReid

September 12th, 2009, 08:42

This is a very slow process for a number of reasons.First and foremost is my ambition usually exceeds my energy level.Where I used to be able to work eight hours at a stretch ,I now only work three or four.The repetitive nature of the stuff I am doing now may also have something to do with it. My inability to drop one project for another, before the first one is completed ,could be another factor.When I get tired of building I usually am doing some kind of research instead of actual building.
Why do I mention this? well aging is not something we normally build into our future plans.If you want to get good at this stuff there is definitely a learning curve involved. Better to get most of the steep learning curve part out of the way while we are relatively young.It takes a lot of energy in the beginning to commit oneself to learning something new,energy that may be not be there as we get older.I read somewhere that every man or woman should have at least three careers in their lifetime,the last one beginning in their fifties.Aside from all the usual pressures of life work,family,etc..it has been said that the most creative time in the life of most artists begins during this decade.I guess what I am trying to say is don't rely upon your retirement to get it done.If you feel a need to be artistically creative better start now.
"Whatever you can do or dream you can,begin it.Boldness has genius,power,and magic in it.Begin it now."(Johann Von Goethe)

End of lecture........

In the latest pic you can see the difference between the almost finished brickwork and the newer facade.
Once the basic color is on the face of the facade, the real fun begins.Each brick has to be worked on individually to achieve a nice varied and subtle look.It can really be time consuming but it is worth the extra effort in the end.
The most important thing to remember is that you are essentially working with watercolors (gouache-acrylic) and it is important to use lots of water in your mixes and not get things too dark too quickly.Take full advantage of the transparency of the medium and paint in thin coats to achieve subtle differences in color or intensity.All the colors in the brickwork you see is the result of only one tube color put on in thin layers.

JohnReid

September 28th, 2009, 14:19

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflier003.jpg

JohnReid

September 29th, 2009, 07:05

My confuser has been down awhile,something about the power supply.http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif
The last pic shows how I will use the two brick facade panels for photography.
Brick facades are common everywhere, so they make great backdrops for a lot of subject matter.The museum will have to wait awhile for this one,I guess.
Speaking about the CAM ,it seems that their building project has been delayed.The money has been approved so I guess that it is just government bureaucracy.
Speaking about museums, I went to the RCAF museum in Trenton Ontario this month.There has been a lot of very nice improvements going on there but the aircraft that are sitting outside still look a lot worse for wear.

JohnReid

October 1st, 2009, 08:52

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfigure-1.jpg

JohnReid

October 1st, 2009, 09:18

This is the only figure that I plan to use in this diorama, except for maybe a nosy neighbor peeking out from behind one of the window curtains.
It is the 120mm Guynemer figure from Model Cellar Productions. It is up to their usual fine standards and well worth the price, when compared to some similar quality figures that are on the market.
For my purposes it is just perfect and reflects the mood that I am trying to create in this diorama.Like a lot of my figures it is just the starting point as I foresee having to make lots of changes.Medals to be removed,alterations to the uniform and a new head will be among them .I also plan to put an old duffel bag leaning up against one of his legs.
With all these great figures around to be modified ,my ambition to one day sculpt my own from scratch, keeps getting pushed back further in time.So much to do,so little time!

harleyman

October 1st, 2009, 14:24

Its looking outstanding John...

BUT...Your man is in shambles......:bump:

JohnReid

October 2nd, 2009, 11:47

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade113.jpg

JohnReid

October 3rd, 2009, 08:55

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Figure%20modification/Guynemerfigure120mm.jpg

JohnReid

October 3rd, 2009, 09:57

I may keep the head and modify the hat,as I really like his facial expression.The blank stare, as I would call it,fits in with the mood of the piece.The coat over the arm suggests spring or fall which gives me a lot of options when doing the vegetation.I don't want a summer look as all that color would distract attention from the main subject matter,the figure and the airplane.
A muddy backyard would be more common in spring in this part of the world and springtime does symbolize rebirth.Fall on the other hand here in Canada indicates the end of something.
My storyline could go either way,the beginning of something or the end.Will he find a renewed interest in aviation now that he has lost his innocence in the war http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/images/misc/exlinkon.gifabove the trenches (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0948817194/ref=nosim/theaerodrome)? or will he just scrap the whole idea and go on to a new future and leave all of that behind him?

JohnReid

October 8th, 2009, 08:08

Out of curiosity I scrolled back in this thread and found that it has been three months since I started the brick facades.Sure I have done other stuff as well but actual modeling, that's it.As I approach the end of this period I can say that I am glad I did it, but to be honest, I probably would hesitate at doing it again.
Long repetitive work such as this does have its positive side however,as it teaches patience and a willingness to put your best effort into even the most boring of tasks.It also allows for a build up of creative energy and a renewed enthusiasm to get at the more rewarding stuff again.Some of my more creative ideas have come during this period, not only involving the piece I am working on but future projects as well.

JohnReid

October 8th, 2009, 08:51

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Backyardflierfacade116.jpg

Nick C

October 8th, 2009, 09:52

Fantastic work John.

I can heartily recommend audio books for those long periods of frustrating work. My current "listen" is Brother Fish by Bryce Courtenay, which is playing out into a fascinating story. I can also recommend the Soloman trilogy, the final book of which (Soloman's Song) has one of the most perfect ending's I think of any book I've read.

http://www.brycecourtenay.com/

Irrespective of the work, they really help pass the hours.

JohnReid

October 11th, 2009, 08:06

Well except for a few finishing touches my bricklaying work is finally finished.Now I can finally move on to more creative stuff.Maybe finish the airplane,maybe modify and paint the new figure.
Even at this late stage I am still fooling around with the composition.I kind of like the facades forming a corner to surround the backyard with the airplane in the middle, but I have pretty much ruled this out as it would be too obstructive for the viewer and would necessitate the diorama being placed in a corner arrangement of some kind ,which would not be too museum friendly.However it would be great for picture taking.I will have to be careful when finishing this piece. How and when to permanently glue things down will be a major consideration ,as I plan to use it for many vignettes including a series on 1920-30 gangsters and their cars.

JohnReid

October 11th, 2009, 08:07

Thanks Nick!:ernae:

JohnReid

October 13th, 2009, 14:45

Finishing up the backyard flier. <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   Started back building the backyard flier today.The first order of business will be to make the outboard streamlined interplane struts and their fittings.The engine will be next and I probably will use a old Ford T design and then partially cover it with an old tarp, so I can suggest that there is an engine there without having to be too detailed.Remember this airplane project has been abandoned for some time while our aviator has been off to war.I thought about putting tarps on the wings as well but I don't what to cover up too much of the structure.Because there will be a "welcome home" sign on the wall they were obviously anticipating his arrival and therefore may have removed some of the tarps.

harleyman

October 13th, 2009, 16:04

I agree John...She would probably be uncovered for his return home...

JohnReid

October 14th, 2009, 09:24

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Curtiss%20pusher%20pics/Curtisspusherreplica8.jpg

JohnReid

October 14th, 2009, 10:08

This is the general arrangement that I will be using for my backyard flier.I don't know what this engine is (probably modern) but I will be using the same 4 cylinder in-line type.
Our budding aviator probably would have used something easily available and relatively cheap like a new or used Ford Model T engine modified it to direct drive, without the gearbox of course.What I plan to do is partially cover the engine with a tarp but leave the prop ,rad and gas tank etc...uncovered.Should be fun!

JohnReid

October 15th, 2009, 05:45

I took an old 1/16th Lindberg 1910 Model T engine and removed the gearbox to make it look more like an aircraft engine.The propeller shaft in there now is temporary and was only used to line things up.This mod was simple to do with a razor saw and a sanding stick.Working slowly you can eventually get what is left of the gearbox to line up with the rest of the engine.There is not a lot of nice crisp detail on this engine but for my purposes here it is OK as I have the option of showing what I want of it because of the covering tarp.The outline alone would really be enough.

JohnReid

October 15th, 2009, 05:57

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Ford%20aero%20engine/Backyardflier007.jpg

Snuffy

October 15th, 2009, 06:00

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Curtiss%20pusher%20pics/Curtisspusherreplica8.jpg

Please tell me that this is not a model shot taken outdoors, but that its the real thing. Please.

Sascha66

October 15th, 2009, 06:17

Very haunting theme... If I may stick my oar in: Leaving the tarps completely uncovered might make the project look too "recent" - after all, it has been sitting neglected for some time. If you keep to the "muddy spring" approach it might be reasonable to assume that some off the cover was blown off and nobody had time to replace them yet.

I am really looking forward to the finished diorama!

Cheers,
Sascha

JohnReid

October 16th, 2009, 06:13

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Ford%20aero%20engine/Backyardflier013.jpg

JohnReid

October 16th, 2009, 15:58

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Ford%20aero%20engine/Fordaeroengine005.jpg

JohnReid

October 16th, 2009, 16:23

Wow! working in here is like working in a bird cage.This is the general arrangement of the engine,fuel tank and rad.I have used brass rod to connect everything up.A little judicious use of the tarp should cover most of it.I am just looking for a general overall shape here.
The fuel system is gravity feed therefore it is set higher than the engine.The rad is from the Ford T.I will not be using a lot of piping or fittings other than maybe the large rad hoses to hang the tarp on.Speaking about the tarp, it should be fun making that in there

JohnReid

October 17th, 2009, 06:27

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Ford%20aero%20engine/Fordaeroengine006.jpg

JohnReid

October 17th, 2009, 12:35

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Ford%20aero%20engine/Fordaeroengine011.jpg

JohnReid

October 18th, 2009, 15:54

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Ford%20aero%20engine/Fordaeroengine014.jpg

SirBenn21

October 18th, 2009, 15:58

:applause::applause::applause:

JohnReid

October 18th, 2009, 16:15

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Ford%20aero%20engine/Fordaeroengine016.jpg

JohnReid

October 20th, 2009, 07:53

Sometimes the easiest and best solution is staring you right in the face.
I put the flier in the diorama and realized that most of the I am trying to hide is not visible anyway.No sense in wasting a lot of time on something that will never be seen. Instead I will concentrate on what is visible and add a bit more to it, like fittings, piping etc...The tarps, if I show them at all, will have been completely removed or blown off over time.Once the whole thing is weathered it should be even more interesting this way,or at least more fun for me as I love the weathering process.
Speaking about finishing only what is visible,this practice has been well established with shadowbox dioramas, where a lot of what you don't see has never been completed in the round, especially detailed figures etc..

JohnReid

October 20th, 2009, 16:38

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Ford%20aero%20engine/Fordaeroengine024.jpg

JohnReid

October 21st, 2009, 05:39

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Ford%20aero%20engine/Fordaeroengine022.jpg

JohnReid

October 21st, 2009, 06:34

I made up the engine support brackets and installed the basic engine.I have started a little weathering using pastels.Later I will be toothbrush spraying a little watery acrylics over the aircraft's wooden structure to age it as well.The fuel tank is next ,then the rad.
Doing a under construction build really has its advantages ,as you can quit with the detail anytime you want.Want to put a bracket without a bolt to secure it?Fine,he just hasn't got around to installing it yet.You don't even have to drill a hole cause you can't see it anyway.If I was doing this as a finished airplane my plan for the build would be completely different and much more complicated.All of my aircraft to date have been of the "under construction" type so I get to decide when to stop.This freedom helps to keep me sane!

Anneke

October 21st, 2009, 07:32

Great stuff John..

JohnReid

October 22nd, 2009, 10:41

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Ford%20aero%20engine/Fordaeroengine025.jpg

Mathias

October 22nd, 2009, 10:50

Man, that's cooler than icecream!
I wouldn't be surprised to hear the engine running.

JohnReid

October 22nd, 2009, 10:59

The copper fuel tank is not in its final position but has been lowered to rest on the engine support beam.I left the tank fitting in a unusual place on the tube to indicate this.The fuel tank can easily be positioned higher, to its final gravity feed position ,when all the fittings etc ... are installed.(after he returns from the war)
The prop will not be installed because something as valuable as that (if he even had one)would not be left outside.
Next?

JohnReid

October 22nd, 2009, 15:09

Making windows <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   Well I think that I will go back to woodworking for awhile.Ken Hamilton has a great tutorial on making windows which I will borrowing from extensively.It is a really great step by step method using a jig and real glass or plexiglass.
The facade will play a secondary role in the diorama but in reality it represents a good portion of the overall work involved.I have to be careful here that I don't get too fancy with the facade.I thought about shutters but it would just be too much.Luckily this is a backyard which would not normally have any anyway.
I will build a few until I get tired of it and then return to the flier somewhere down the road.

harleyman

October 22nd, 2009, 18:43

That engine looks outstanding John.....

peter12213

October 22nd, 2009, 19:14

Good use of the old weathering powders there, me and my father do the same to our trains lol, we'll my Dad more than me he's got a fettish for building factories for his layout lol, still whatever floats your boat ehh!

JohnReid

October 23rd, 2009, 07:26

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/How%20to%20build%20and%20paint%20tutorials/Window24.jpg

JohnReid

October 23rd, 2009, 07:59

Talk about going from one extreme to another! From aircraft engine to windows.On a long project like this you have got to keep learning something new.Dioramas provide lots of room for learning and is one of the main reasons I do them.
The above pic is Ken Hamilton's almost finished window.Mine of course will be an exterior window so therefore will be a little different but basically it will be his methodology that I will be using.
Looks simple doesn't it? and I guess like most things it is after you have done the first one but you would be surprised just how much planning goes into it.(thanks Ken)
Well here we go!

JohnReid

October 25th, 2009, 13:09

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Facwin001.jpg

JohnReid

October 25th, 2009, 14:16

Windows <hr style="color: rgb(133, 130, 101); background-color: rgb(133, 130, 101);" size="1">   The above pic was taken with a flash so the facade looks washed out.

The window jambs have already been installed so I will be required to build each window right on the facade rather than in a jig.I used 1 inch insulation and then wound around a large rubber band in order to get the facade to lay flat .Over the facade I have placed a cardboard sheet to protect the brick and then cut a hole in it for the window to be worked upon.

JohnReid

October 26th, 2009, 06:05

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/KH%20pics/Window24.jpg
deleted pic

Snuffy

October 26th, 2009, 06:14

Looking Great John! I've torn windows out of buildings with the counter weights ... amazing things.

:ernae:

JohnReid

October 26th, 2009, 15:31

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Backyard%20Flyer%20dio4/Facwin.jpg

JohnReid

October 27th, 2009, 06:22

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/KH%20pics/Window22.jpg

Snuffy

October 27th, 2009, 06:49

John,

I'm jealous beyond description over your talent!! :ernae:

JohnReid

October 27th, 2009, 07:23

The above is a fully working window that slides up and down .I make mine from wood but plastic could also be used.The window panes are 1/16th Lexan that I cut from a sheet and then with a fine blade in my scroll saw,I cut out the rough shape .I then use a small belt sander with fine sandpaper to trim the rest.Any further shaping that is required to fit the panes into the individual window openings is done by using hand sanders.
The end on view gives you a good idea of how the whole thing is put together.