Thrushmaster TD-16000M

[highpockets]

Opps T-16000M
I bought one of these a few months ago and unfortunately too late to return ( 30 days). I kept fooling with it thinking it could be adjusted.The problem is that it will not return neutral after takeoff. I have to hold back on the stick regardless of which aircraft I am flying to keep it from diving.. I can adjust trim each time but what a pain! I have fiddled with the settings in the sim and all shows to be working properly. I am about to go back to my old MSFF2 even though it is a bit worn. At least I could put it back to neutral after takeoff and fly level.
I have contacted Thrustmaster for help-but not too excited that I will get a response.
Any Ideas?
Thanks

[jymp]

I have one of these also, not really impressed, throttle sticks no matter what you do, the buttons are loosely attached, I liked the T-Flight Hotas X better.

[Fibber]

..this may sound stupid but check the connections form the stick to the computer. I had that problem several months ago and I found the the plug connection at the stick base was not all the way in. Reconnected it and viola! problem solved.
BTW;in case I misunderstand you is the "calibrate joystick" in settings show it is working properly?

[highpockets]

Fibber
Yes the joystick settings show it is working properly and properly centered , etc.
My unit has only a USB plug, no plug on the base. wired direct, I assume.

[Fibber]

....maybe uninstalling and reinstalling might help. Maybe a driver has become corrupted.

[highpockets]

Thanks Fibber
Good idea. I had not thought of that. I will give it a try later today.

[highpockets]

I have it on a Windows XP , reinstalled software and no joy.
Also tried it on a Windows 10 laptop. still wants to fly nose down.
both using stock A/C :banghead:

[Fibber]

.......use it for Kamakazi missions:biggrin-new: When all else fails use the old technician remedy. Whack it with a hammer. Heck, worked for the astronauts:wavey:

[highpockets]

Fibber
Even the old standby bailing wire wont work. :biggrin-new:
I will wait and see if I get any satisfaction from Thrustmaster. I tried Logitech 3D before and found it too light and too stiff for my liking. I had an X-52 setup and it was OK but lost it in a storage fire after we moved. Too big for my little desk now anyway. My old MSFF2 is working OK for now. It gets an little buggy sometimes.
With T-16000M, I can trim the plane up each time, but who wants to act like a real pilot, trimming up after airborne at cruse speed. I just want to go shoot.:rocket:

[Shessi]

I just realised, maybe it's because you have a THRUSH-master, and not a Thrustmaster, that's why it's not working...use live yoghurt...that may help...;)

Seriously though, it will almost certainly be the variable resistor pots/rheostats inside, these are the mechanics that transalates your stick movements into electrical impulses. The surfaces get dirty and worn inside, and that's when it picks up only in certain places. If re-calibrating doesn't work then the only real option is either getting the pots changed (Thrustmaster won't touch it, it will be an independant electrical component geek that will be willing and able to do it for you), OR (and this is something I have done, which worked, BUT you do it at your own risk), is to drip isopropol alcohol into the affected pot, moving the stick back and forth, this will clean the contact and (may) restores serviceability.

They don't make 'em like they used to! And now there are not too many choices as pc controllers are taken over by gaming console pads or very expensive flight sim separate controls...grrr

Cheers

Shessi

[highpockets]

Shessi
Thrushmaster:biggrin-new::untroubled::adoration::banghead:
You are probably right about Thrustmaster but the unit is basically new. It is my fault for not returning it to Fry's Electronics for another one within the 30 days. Thought it might be me or the a/c. I can try the alcohol or I might even try the pot replacement. I have done some of that "stuff". Repaired monitor screens by replacing capacitors on main boards, but this might be a bit more tricky. I will look into it.
Thanks for the tips.

[UnknownGuest12]

Using the same joystick for about 2 years now, no special adjustements, no problems at all, quite happy with it.

Regards

[_486_Col_Wolf]

I just realised, maybe it's because you have a THRUSH-master, and not a Thrustmaster, that's why it's not working...use live yoghurt...that may help...;)

Seriously though, it will almost certainly be the variable resistor pots/rheostats inside, these are the mechanics that transalates your stick movements into electrical impulses. The surfaces get dirty and worn inside, and that's when it picks up only in certain places. If re-calibrating doesn't work then the only real option is either getting the pots changed (Thrustmaster won't touch it, it will be an independant electrical component geek that will be willing and able to do it for you), OR (and this is something I have done, which worked, BUT you do it at your own risk), is to drip isopropol alcohol into the affected pot, moving the stick back and forth, this will clean the contact and (may) restores serviceability.

They don't make 'em like they used to! And now there are not too many choices as pc controllers are taken over by gaming console pads or very expensive flight sim separate controls...grrr

Cheers

Shessi
A better bet is a spray can of electrical contact cleaner/lube. It's made just for this situation. I use it on every scratchy pot on guitars, amps, stereo systems and my Hotas joystick.

[highpockets]

I have a can of that! good idea! :applause:

[highpockets]

Took the bottom off. Saw no potentiometers Only circuit board .The bottom of the stick had a small round metal disk that may have been a magnet. Did mess with that. I will just trim up the a/c or go back to my MMFF2. :engel016:

[_486_Col_Wolf]

Right. It uses the H.E.A.R.T technology with magnetic sensors. There are no pots, my mistake. You may have to do a calibration through the TARGET software. Other than that it may be defective. Check with Thrustmaster on their warranty repair/return policy.