C-47 v3 Takeoff help

[ryanbatc]

Hi on takeoff I'm supposed to lock the tailwheel right? And around 40 kts the rudder would provide some steering control?

The issue I'm seeing is that prior to reaching 40 kts the plane will wander left of centerline (makes sense) and the rudder does nothing and since tailwheel is locked I can't counter. I don't have separate multiengine throttle controls so how am I to manage the takeoff?

[gman5250]

Hi on takeoff I'm supposed to lock the tailwheel right? And around 40 kts the rudder would provide some steering control?

The issue I'm seeing is that prior to reaching 40 kts the plane will wander left of centerline (makes sense) and the rudder does nothing and since tailwheel is locked I can't counter. I don't have separate multiengine throttle controls so how am I to manage the takeoff?

Tail wheel lock will track the plane until you get rudder authority. The plan is reacting to dynamics like torque and wind until that point. Without separate throttles it's going to be a challenge.

I would spool up to TO power with brakes locked. Release the brakes at 36 MAP and push the yoke full forward, roll on power to 40 MAP. The tail should come up fairly quickly and you will have rudder control at that point. Use light taps on the toe brake during initial roll to keep the nose on or close to center line. Remember that this model maintains inertial direction so once it starts in a direction, it tends to sustain that inertia.

This is a model that performs much better with asymmetric power. I'd get the dual throttle when you can manage it. :encouragement:

[ryanbatc]

I've always wanted multi engine power levers... I don't really have space on my desk though.

What do you recommend?

[BendyFlyer]

ryanbatc - ******** has the most useful advice.

The reason for the tail wheel lock is that it is a castoring wheel that is non steerable and this aircraft was controlled on the ground using assymmetric braking and power like most if not all twin engined aircraft of the period. The only tip I can suggest is to practise take offs but most importantly ensure that your lined up STRAIGHT before applying power and commencing the take off run. The way FSX displays the runway can make it seem like you are straight but if you switch to external view you will often find the aircraft is slightly nose left or right of centre line, if you start the take off like that, that is where it is going until you get rudder control. You could also try smoothly and slowly applying power the aircraft will stay relatively straight until you have rudder control as well then increase power. Uncontrolled swing will always result from slamming open the throttles and a tail dragger has what is called pendulum moment most of the mass is aft of the centre of gravity and once it begins to swing badly, it will, which is why ground loops (uncontrolled swing outcome) is and was so common in real tail dragger aircraft. Now you know why nose wheel steering and tricycle undercarriages became a popular design feature. The more power the worse the swing in a tail dragger.

Another thought the DC-3/C-47 was not a benign pussycat of an aeroplane and can be a real beast at times and a real DC-3 could catch out the most experienced pilot when they let their guard down (See Ernest K Gann's stories of bouncing DC-3s when he was doing his type endorsement originally and his words of wisdom on flying the Dak.

I do not have dual throttles and mostly use a keyboard and a single joystick and if you have done some flying for real remember the instructors lament to all students "more right rudder". Another thought is that the wing of the DC-3 has a swept profile which means unequal lift translating into the dreaded yaw-roll couple.

[gman5250]

I've always wanted multi engine power levers... I don't really have space on my desk though.

What do you recommend?

For the money, Saitek has a range of products. I'd stay away from CH controllers, I bought a set and they began to degrade very quickly. I personally use a Thrustmaster Warthog, but it is pricey and fairly bulky if you have space issues.

I'd start with Saitek, but do your research as far as system compatibility.

[griphos]

If you want to be really straight, then put the centerline between a our legs, not where you imagine the center of the plane to be. Try it while taxiing, switching from external to internal, and you'll see what I mean. Same as in a real airplane.

Light taps of differential braking will correct for gyro and p-factor until rudder has authority. In a real taildragger, you are fighting three forces that all want to pull you left, from increasing prop rpm, from torque, and from the forces acting when you lift the tail and change the direction of thrust relative to the plane or vector of travel. Doing all three things a bit more slowly helps.

Im the opposite of Gordon. Went through too many Saitek throttle quadrants before switching to CH. I'm still using the same CH quadrant. Pots have deteriorated some on some axes, but it's been seven years or so. Still using the same CH pedals for almost two decades now.

[jandjfrench]

Hi ryan,
A trim of 5 degrees right rudder before starting the take off roll should help. Without differential braking it will still be difficult. If you're not using the numeric keypad to fly the plane I recommend assigning the trims to it. And, I've had no problems with my CH yoke or rudder pedals.
Jim F.

[Portia911]

I've always wanted multi engine power levers... I don't really have space on my desk though.

What do you recommend?

If you really want them, you'll find the space. :untroubled:
. . . but you don't need extra hardware to fly this beauty. Unless you're shoe-horned into a small field (in which case Gordon's rev-it-up advice would be best), the combination of progressive application of power, and a couple of stabs on the right toe-brake in need, will see you right (no pun intended).

[Ian Warren]

My first experience in cockpit jump-seat 1986, the NZ FieldAir Freight service, first thing after helping to load, I thought now how are we going to get into the cockpit, well that is what stepladders were designed for:untroubled: so up we go, ... after startup, on the taxi it is amazing to see first time and first hand the amount of work the two pilots are doing , jockeying the throttles propeller pitch and the brakes ... so that was my first flight in a DC-3 Christchurch to Wellington back Christchurch , best thing the weather was atrocious, a Southerly cold front come up the Island that day made for a even more interesting ride .... Saitek yes indeed is the way to go :encouragement:

[stansdds]

For the money, Saitek has a range of products. I'd stay away from CH controllers, I bought a set and they began to degrade very quickly. I personally use a Thrustmaster Warthog, but it is pricey and fairly bulky if you have space issues.

I'd start with Saitek, but do your research as far as system compatibility.

I have had the opposite experience with my CH controllers. Mine very rarely need recalibration and they have been completely reliable. Mine are about 8 years old.

[Alky]

I have had the opposite experience with my CH controllers. Mine very rarely need recalibration and they have been completely reliable. Mine are about 8 years old.

I've had mine for at least 8 years as well. I even flew air combat with them for a couple of years, lots of yanking and cranking, still work great. I once had a Saitek 52 or some such number, they have a metal spring in the joystick that immediately started to give off a squeaking grating sound. Very annoying. I got rid of it and have never touched anything but CH since. :)

[Craig Taylor]

I've had my CH throttle quadrant for at least 10 years (I think), as well as rudder pedals and a Fighterstick. The throttle quadrant has been "set it and forget it" for the most part. Plus, the clamps are easy to mount/dismount on a table or desk surface, so you only need to finds space when you want to fly. I do get a tiny bit of twitchiness from the individual throttle levers but nothing that truly impacts the sim. You'll really enjoy the luxury of having manual levers for throttle, mixture, and RPM, and it's easily configurable from one engine to four. What I really couldn't do without at this point is physical switches for things like gear and flaps. It's so much easier than hunting for the right key on the keyboard, especially in stressful situations.